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  #11  
Old 03-24-2021, 07:57 PM
Andrew-L Andrew-L is offline
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Bottom line, you are looking for a all around fertilizer, or that's what the culture sheet says.

So 20-20-20 = 12-12-12 = 8-8-8

The only difference is the dose, or how you dilute it. Get yourself an EC/TDS meter and you'll be able to KNOW how strong you are feeding it
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2021, 08:01 PM
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Or just use 1/4 to 1/2 of whatever it says on the bottle. Too little is much better than too much.
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2021, 08:11 PM
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That does work also. But there is no information for future reference when you do that.

Good analogy, feeding without knowing HOW much exactly is kinda like eating off the run down school bus taco truck. You may not get sick this time, but it's gonna happen eventually
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2021, 08:14 PM
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I use 20.20.20 with Cats and Orchid Focus with the rest.

I normally have lots of flowers but I this is because of Roberta Comments: right conditions and supervision; Humidity and light

BTW In regards to fert, those anyone fertilize foliage with Orchid Focus? . I just realized that they suggest that every 3 day..
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2021, 08:29 PM
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In nature, when does a plant just get "plain" water? Never

Roberta is right on weakly weekly. My ocd kicks in if I don't know exactly what's in there
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  #16  
Old 03-24-2021, 08:29 PM
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Foliar feeding doesn't do much, if anything, for orchids... the leaves have a waxy cuticle (an adaptation that conserves water in their epiphytic environment). So fertilizer applied to the leaves just rolls off or washes off. Yes, some will then end up in the medium where the roots can absorb it (or maybe a tiny bit may get into the leaves). It is a lot more efficient to put the fertilizer on (and through) the medium where it goes straight to the roots in the first place.
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  #17  
Old 03-24-2021, 08:37 PM
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Roberta, question. Have you ever wondered how much fertilizer your plant could take? If it's not nutrient burning it's still hungry right? The plant will store all this "energy" and use it how it sees fit. If you are giving her a heaping plate, and she eats it, roots will be better, leaves will be better.

You can only walk the thin line of making her fat and killing her with a TDS meter.
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  #18  
Old 03-24-2021, 08:45 PM
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Orchids won't particularly "store" excess nutrients... they'll absorb the little bit that their roots are able to absorb and the rest just washes out. You can't force feed them. With other factors that might inspire faster growth (more light, perhaps a bit of extra warmth) they likely will benefit from more fertilizer. But the difference is going to be small - and all the factors need to be balanced. And not useful for all types. I am interested in happy-medium conditions that let me grow variety. Far more technical than I care to get... I'm not going after cultural awards.
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  #19  
Old 03-24-2021, 08:48 PM
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And then you start injecting CO2 into the grow area. 😁 I'm really trying to recreate the mesozoic era in my garage lmao
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  #20  
Old 03-24-2021, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta View Post
Common sense and observing one's plants goes a long way toward achieving success.
A lot of truth in the above words.

Most scientists are quick to point out that observation is essential to science. The core skill of a scientist is observation (using their personal senses or using tools of the trade to do so). Usually, growing orchids requires some patience (which also applies to observation).

Many times an experienced orchid grower can pass information along that works and/or has worked for them, to hopefully make things easier for another ('been there, did that' scenario). And that truly does come from experience and "hands-on". Orchid hobbyists (without the trio of initials following their names) that truly observe their plants are like scientists too, eh?

For what it's worth... Andrew-L made a good point. Never judge a member by the number of posts (or the date of their membership)... The member with 2 posts or newest date might just blow everyone away with their knowledge.
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