help with battered new delivery

[Roberta]

If the root system is good, and the plants aren't too horribly dessicated the soak may be sufficient. The anti-transpirant just helps keep the moisture in the plant until the roots can get enough water absorbed.

[OrchidChimp]

I’m interested in this thread but have a few questions.

I agree with Ray on the multihour soak in kelpmax with good quality water. I have done so with and without kelpmax and anecdotally noticed better root development with the kelpmax.

I dont understand the chemistry/botany behind adding sugar. Can someone explain or redirect me to an article that can describe the mechanics?

Similarly, i really dont understand why you would want to stop the transpiration by applying Cloud Cover. Is the thought to slow additional water loss through the leaves? Are you supposed to wash the Cloud Cover off so the plant can eventually “ breath”? Thinking back to my college botany course, plants cannot survive without transpiration.

TIA. Keith

[estación seca]

Plants make sugar from sunlight. They burn the sugar to run metabolic processes. If they've been in the dark they've been unable to photosynthesise and make sugar. When they run out of sugar they die. It is taken up easily by roots.

A plant shipped bare-root may struggle to take up water. Transpiration through leaf pores may lose more water than the plant can take up, and this will kill the plant. Transpiration can be reduced by putting the plant in a very high humidity environment or by using antitranspirants on the leaves. It's been shown to work well and not harm the plant.

[OrchidChimp]

Learn something new everyday. Thanks

[Dusty Ol' Man]

It has long been a practice to put sugar in the water for cut flowers. Makes them last longer.

[neophyte]

re the Sobralia: It's been dropping leaves rapidly. I have a feeling it's because the orchid room's too warm – especially since it didn't drop any leaves while it was outdoors (I'm sure being wrapped up kept it more humid as well). I was thinking about moving it to a cooler area of the house and maybe placing a small humidifier nearby, but the only cool areas of the house are much shadier, and I read that this plant is more of a high-light grower. Thoughts?

[Roberta]

Imported Sobralias are on the difficult side at best... they hate the bare-rooting process that they have to go through. (My success rate for those is lower than for the more epiphytic species though it's improving) I grow Sob. crocea quite shady (and outside - cool is fine) . "Damp" is super important... everything else can wait. Either small bark or spaghnum (or some combination of the two) This is a genus that is mostly terrestrial. I keep mine quite wet, and it has grown rather well once it recovered from the transportation process (I got it at a show but it still was a very recent, bare root import)

For temperature... Baker lists its elevation range as 1000-3000 m. More likely around 1800 m or higher. So it can tolerate low temperatures of 40 deg F or maybe even a little lower. Protect from summer heat if possible. Mine is in a terracotta pot - evaporative cooling of roots, as well as being in fairly deep shade, and wet.

[neophyte]

Well shoot, I just transplanted it into a plastic pot. Maybe I'll move it into a clay pot. Not sure if that might stress the plant more...

[estación seca]

Don't move it. Plastic is fine and it shouldn't be disturbed again.

[Roberta]

I agree, leave it alone. Once it establishes, it can be moved without seriously disturbing medium. Just be sure that it never dries out.