New member - feeding Dendrobium Nobile & Phalaenopsis

[estación seca]

Welcome to the Orchid Board!

Your two orchids have different cultural requirements. The Phalaenopsis is a low light plant that prefers even watering and fertilizing all year. They are fine with just enough light to cast an indistinct shadow. What is the potting mix now? Watering is different if in sphagnum moss than in bark. Phals do better with warmer temperatures. What are your day/night temperatures? Have a look at a thread here about growing Phals. From the left yellow menu select Forums, then Beginners. Look near the top for the sticky thread The Phal abuse stops here.

There are Dendrobiums from many different climates, requiring different care. Nobile hybrids have an annual growth cycle the grower must respect for flowering. They flower in spring. Commercial growers manipulate greenhouse temperatures to bring them into flower at any season. They should be watered well during flowering or flowers may drop early. I would not let it dry out at this stage. Does your plant have a full set of leaves with its flowers? Most do when sold.

Soon it will begin making new growth from the base. Make sure it gets bright light, brighter than for Phalaenopsis. Begin fertilizing with new growth, stopping in late August. Fertilizing too late in summer causes the plant to produce plantlets at cane nodes rather than flowers.

Also water heavily in spring and summer. Dendrobiums of all sorts in active growth should never dry completely or growths may be lost. Continue watering after you stop fertilizing. As fall progresses and each new growth matures its final leaf, give it much cooler temperatures, 10-12C but not freezing. Also give as much winter light as possible. In habitat these grow on deciduous trees. Water less, but water enough they keep their leaves. Recall it was in full leaf when you bought it. Flowering is triggered by cool winter temperatures, and inhibited by fertilizing too late in the summer. Some people advise drying the plants completely for weeks or months in winter if you cannot provide cool temperatures. This does not work, and the plant will be damaged or killed. As flower buds grow you may water more, but don't begin fertilizing again until you see new growth from the base.

[mm0sdk]

Originally Posted by estación seca

Welcome to the Orchid Board!

Your two orchids have different cultural requirements. The Phalaenopsis is a low light plant that prefers even watering and fertilizing all year. They are fine with just enough light to cast an indistinct shadow. What is the potting mix now? Watering is different if in sphagnum moss than in bark. Phals do better with warmer temperatures. What are your day/night temperatures? Have a look at a thread here about growing Phals. From the left yellow menu select Forums, then Beginners. Look near the top for the sticky thread The Phal abuse stops here.

There are Dendrobiums from many different climates, requiring different care. Nobile hybrids have an annual growth cycle the grower must respect for flowering. They flower in spring. Commercial growers manipulate greenhouse temperatures to bring them into flower at any season. They should be watered well during flowering or flowers may drop early. I would not let it dry out at this stage. Does your plant have a full set of leaves with its flowers? Most do when sold.

Soon it will begin making new growth from the base. Make sure it gets bright light, brighter than for Phalaenopsis. Begin fertilizing with new growth, stopping in late August. Fertilizing too late in summer causes the plant to produce plantlets at cane nodes rather than flowers.

Also water heavily in spring and summer. Dendrobiums of all sorts in active growth should never dry completely or growths may be lost. Continue watering after you stop fertilizing. As fall progresses and each new growth matures its final leaf, give it much cooler temperatures, 10-12C but not freezing. Also give as much winter light as possible. In habitat these grow on deciduous trees. Water less, but water enough they keep their leaves. Recall it was in full leaf when you bought it. Flowering is triggered by cool winter temperatures, and inhibited by fertilizing too late in the summer. Some people advise drying the plants completely for weeks or months in winter if you cannot provide cool temperatures. This does not work, and the plant will be damaged or killed. As flower buds grow you may water more, but don't begin fertilizing again until you see new growth from the base.

Some great information for me to use here, thank you. You've all been a great help and very welcoming i must say. My only problem now is, I have to learn to resist the urge of buying too many Orchids.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by mm0sdk

My only problem now is, I have to learn to resist the urge of buying too many Orchids.

Alas, I don't think you will find much help on THAT issue... we're all hopelessly addicted.

[mm0sdk]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Alas, I don't think you will find much help on THAT issue... we're all hopelessly addicted.

I think i am too now. Just rescued 2 Phalaenopsis they were almost giving away, from a store that probably had never been watered in all the time they sat on the shelf - many weeks probably. Both repotted, dead roots trimmed, and i have cut down the flower spikes. One has sprung back to life with leaves now no longer wrinkled and flopping about, but much firmer and rehydrated. The other is coming round but slower.

I've ordered the Rainmix. I've looked at the local water board test results for my supply and it is listed as "moderately soft". I wonder if this will be ok with Rainmix. If not, i'll be out with cupped hands standing in the rain...lol.