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Thanks again. |
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Another option is to put a couple of plants in a humidity container (see-through tub with a little bit of ventilation). The main problem right now is no roots, which prevents the orchid from getting water into it, that can result in the orchid just drying up. Unless there is adequate life support ------ to slow the dehydration, to buy time for the orchid in hopefully producing more roots, or unless the orchid happens to sprout roots very soon --- then it could be a one-way ticket for all these orchids. And if these orchids recover ----- then we can also begin to establish a suitable watering schedule or system. All the best with these orchids. |
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Cut the spike and put them in flower or in a vase with moss and water. Like cut flowers. They last forever. I think the bark is the must safety way if you have doubts , but here is a IU test and then it end up in bark with all those roost (for inspiration) Cheers |
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It looks like it’s on back order: KelpMax Superior Plant Growth Stimulant › First Rays LLC
I wouldn’t pay that price on Amazon either ;) I’ve rehabbed many Phalaenopsis without it, but it’s nice to have in the arsenal. Some look like they still have a few roots stubs on the base. I’ve even just potted some of my near rootless Phals up in bark, staked them, and watered whenever the bark was dry. It took awhile and the leaves suffered from dehydration until the new roots grew in, but they recovered. There are lots of different ways to grow Phals. I’ve had the best luck, when I set them up to minimize disturbance. If I’m messing with the plant: moving it, inadvertently bumping developing root buds, recovery proceeds much slower or halts altogether so I pot them up. If I add a clear plastic bag overtop with slits cut for ventilation, the leaves fair better: less water loss from transpiration. |
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It is backordered on my website and currently unavailable on Amazon because I am battling with my supplier to get bottles! Normally, I place a bulk order and it arrives in 3-4 days. It's now over 2 weeks and the back-orders are building. Supposedly my order is to be delivered today, meaning I'll be able to ship on Monday. We'll have to wait and see, as they've been promising shipment since last Monday, but as that didn't happen - nor any of the other "it'll go out today" promises I've gotten - but I at least have an overnight delivery tracking number. |
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It is a plastic bottle with holes in the bottom on top of Sphagnum moss but not directly touching it, it only absorbs moisture and the truth is that I started with a stem and 2 very rotten roots trying to save what was there, but in the end I cut it and eliminated everything , and leave only the crowns, in the bottle they have been until 2 roots came out and I turned it to 100% pine bark spraying the roots every two days and watering every 7 days. Progress is very slow, several months or so. But without hormones, placed in a medium bright place, not very brighter up to see new roots. I have good progress with the roots of all Phals and always using 80% pine bark and a bit of charcoal and moss, but I think the biggest helping factor is my environment. Cheers! |
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If the leaves do start shrivelling at some fairly fast rate, then a big version of something like this will help .....
eg. a big version of saxon mini green-house or equivalent (eg. fish-tank, see-through plastic tub etc). Leave some gaps for ventilation ..... and keep a warm temperature, and medium lighting level (with no direct sun). Sphagnum moss can even be placed inside the tub ----- with no need for the moss coming into contact with the plant. Condensation on all the walls building up quickly (once the cover is used) will be a good sign to look for ----- an indicator of nice humidity. http://www.orchidboard.com/community...1&d=1610247817 And - a possible setup to help out ...... http://www.orchidboard.com/community...1&d=1610253990 |
Phalaenopsis (and many other orchid) roots are bright green when new. As they grow tips remain green, and the part back from the tip turns white or silver. The tissue conducting water is thin, like a thread, running through the center of the white cylinder. The white or silver cylinder consists of many layers of dying or dead cells, and is called velamen. It functions as a sponge to hold water, and conduct it to the threadlike root. Over time the velamen turns brownish and papery, and may be stripped from the central root core. But - that central root core is still alive, and the old velamen is still conducting water. Don't cut off old roots. Even lacking velamen those thin cores can take up water.
Edit: If you save your plants, they will still probably lose most of their leaves before growing new roots. Phals are good at preserving water by sacrificing leaves. New leaves will be very small until roots form. The plant will gradually enlarge until it's big enough to bloom again. It will likely be 3 or 4 more years before you see flowers on these plants. Survival is not assured, and plants might die after a year or more. You will feel more upset than now. So that you don't become discouraged and give up on orchids, I might suggest you throw these away and begin with healthy plants. |
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