Root rot on mounted orchids.

[Cole.Williamson]

Okay. I feel like I am pretty well versed as a orchid grower. But for some reason all of the orchids I mount, either have there roots rot, or they dry up completely. I cannot seem to find the sweet spot with sphagnum moss. I recently switched from cork to tree fern mounts. Should I be using much less because the tree fern its self can hold water?. This has happened to me with, phals, bulbophyllums, tolumnias. Any advice for the amount of moss that I should be using would help a lot. Thanks.

[Clawhammer]

Roots usually rot when there is a large change in conditions. If they go from a pot to air, they will likely dry up. If they go from air to a pot, they will quickly turn to mush. Same often happens when potting material changes as pH and air/water ratio changes.

Luckily the plants will grow new roots suited to the new conditions. Just keep doing what you are doing consistently and the orchids will adapt.

[DirtyCoconuts]

Where do you live and what are your growing conditions like?

Is there a reason you want mounted plants especially?


Oh, welcome!!! Nice to have you here

[WaterWitchin]

Welcome Cole! I can understand having an orchid you mount to have roots dry up, but not rot the roots. Clawhammer is on point that it takes time for roots to adapt to a different way of growth, and you're gonna have loss and need to be persistent. But rot? Definitely need more info about how you're mounting, watering schedule, and what you're doing with the sphagnum in order to better assist.

[SouthPark]

CW ----- it probably also depends on what type of tree fern is being used. In Australia --- some people liked to use Cyathea australis, which could possibly be hard to obtain these days over here ----- which held water, but not as much as some other sorts of tree fern when doing the dunking method.

[estación seca]

Welcome to the Orchid Board!

If you're growing in the house your humidity might be low. That will make roots dry up. It's hard to grow mounts in the house, especially high water use plants like Bulbos, without a terrarium or humidifier.

[Roberta]

First, WELCOME!

A consideration for mounting... it is critical (even more so than for potting) to only do it when new roots are just starting. Those new roots are the only ones that will grab the mount. Also... unless you need just a little sphagnum to cushion the plant, it is best to not put any sphagnum over the roots rather than between the plant and the mount. Spaghnum between plant and mount will tend to prevent attachment. Orchids that are dominant epiphytes (such as the Cattleya tribe and also Phalaenopsis, Vandas, etc.) are, in my experience, generally better off without any sphagnum at all, assuming that you can meet their humidity needs. Catts, especially, do much better for me completely bare root - again assuming that they are mounted at the proper time, when new roots are just starting. And make sure that they are oriented with the active part toward the mount, to give the roots the best opportunity to grab on.

[Steve83]

I had similar problems with sphagnum when used to help mount to treefern or mixed with bark in a vanda basket (temp 70-85f, humidity @ that time fluctuated 60-80%, 1-3x/day spraying). All did well initially, but within a few weeks they took a turn, and I discovered root rot.

All plants were re-mounted, using just wire or monofilament, and have put out plenty of new roots and pseudobulbs.

If you don't have enough humidity, light, temp, water, air- mounts will not do well, and trying to sustain them will be a hassle.