Which orchids DO NOT need a temp drop to bloom?

[nzadro]

Hi there!

Which orchids do not need a temp drop to bloom?

I want to beef up a future indoor grow tent, but will have trouble dropping temperatures in there to induce blooming. Thanks!

N.

[SouthPark]

nz ------ I think 'temperate-climate' cymbidiums are the main ones to watch out for ------ which generally need the special daily cool-down conditions for some long enough number of days or maybe even weeks ....... for triggering flower spike development. Not sure what the mechanisms are behind it.

Maybe most other mainstream orchids - catts, dendrobium, phalaenopsis and some other groups, don't need special cooldown cycles. There probably could be 'special' exceptions though.

[Dollythehun]

IMO, Oncidium tribe, Blc, Den phals, Latouria dens, Encyclia, and Epidendrum. These are what I grow plus a few catts. I have lots of phals which normally do require a slight temp change but, not all appear to.

[Roberta]

If you go back to the species origins of each type, do a bit of research as to where they come from. In tropical latitudes, temperature does not vary much over the course of the year. There may still be a cycle... due to variations in rainfall, but it's not temperature-driven. So orchids form the tropics likely don't need (or particularly want) a seasonal cooldown. (Higher elevation plants likely DO expect and benefit from a day-night differential) Plants that come from more temperate latitudes (north of the Tropic of Cancer or south of the Tropic of Capricorn)will experience more seasonal temperature variation. Remember, orchids (and other plants) have evolved in their environments to optimize their growth and flowering (pollination) and that's what drives the seasonal behavior. So knowing about the environment from which the plant came (or its ancestors, in the case of hybrids) will tell you about its seasonal "expectations".

[Steve83]

I've only been growing orchids, and in a tent, for about 2 months. Depending on positioning in the tent, the plants get a 10-15f day/night swing in temp (my thermostat is set for 68f in the evening). This can be manipulated to some extent with fans and vent configurations.

The following, which did not have spikes/sheaths when I purchased them, began developing them after some root and vegetative growth: C. aurantiaca, C. Zheng Yi Cranberry, Epc Magic Wand, Onc. Twinkle Pink Profusion, and Dinema polybulbon.

Post pics when you get it set up.

[Roberta]

Steve, just be patient... I don't know about the hybrids, but the bloom time for C. aurantiaca is somewhere around April-May (assuming the plant is big enough...) and Dinema polybulbon January-February based on history for my own plants. Depending on how big they were when you got them, they could still need another year or two. But as long as they are growing, they'll get there eventually. Orchids are in no hurry to do anything...

[MisterGuy]

Originally Posted by Steve83

I've only been growing orchids, and in a tent, for about 2 months. Depending on positioning in the tent, the plants get a 10-15f day/night swing in temp (my thermostat is set for 68f in the evening). This can be manipulated to some extent with fans and vent configurations.

The following, which did not have spikes/sheaths when I purchased them, began developing them after some root and vegetative growth: C. aurantiaca, C. Zheng Yi Cranberry, Epc Magic Wand, Onc. Twinkle Pink Profusion, and Dinema polybulbon.

Post pics when you get it set up.

When I had mine in a tent, I induced blooms in my phals by keeping them on a 24/7 heating mat for several weeks, then putting the heating mat on the lighting timer. As far as they were concerned, they had a short summer in the 90s and then it started getting "cold" at night, with up to a 20 degree drop down to 74ish. That was the ONLY time I got my Phals into a big ol fancy display.

Then I moved, and everything has been limping along.

[Roberta]

When I first got started with orchids, I was living in a condo, mostly had Phals. I didn't get consistent reblooming until I increased the light duration... the spare bedroom was my "greenhouse" and I added some $9.99 Home Depot shop lights, on a timer, lights on 12 hours a day to supplement what came in the window. Once I did that, I got about 80% reblooming. Temperature variation was only what was inside the house (a bit cooler in winter, not a lot). So light duration is an easily-controlled factor to try. Here is what my setup looked like: http://orchidcentral.org/GrowingAreas/indoor.jpg

[Steve83]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Steve, just be patient... I don't know about the hybrids, but the bloom time for C. aurantiaca is somewhere around April-May (assuming the plant is big enough...) and Dinema polybulbon January-February based on history for my own plants. Depending on how big they were when you got them, they could still need another year or two. But as long as they are growing, they'll get there eventually. Orchids are in no hurry to do anything...

No hurry here. Most of mine are chosen for their vegetative look. I was just surprised how quickly they adapt to new conditions/repotting/mounting.

[Orchidtinkerer]

Dolly has listed some nice examples although the den phals need to be kept at higher temperatures than the rest which are cooler growing.
Similar temps to phalaenopsis which also only require a minimal temperature difference.

If you research the Cattleya, you will find a few that do not require much difference, I found the Cattleya jenmanii recently for my climate which only requires a 3C difference.

So Epidendrum, Encyclia and oncidium all good choices but do research them as I found Encyclia's can be hot or cool growing.

Angraecum Magdalenae is often grown on a windowsill but it can be hard to find these days, there are some Maxillaria's that will do well on a windowsill but not all so check which are available and what their requirements are.