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09-09-2020, 08:42 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Zone: 7b
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 117
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How would you water sphag in baskets?
Not trying to overthink it, just want to get a sense of what everyone else would prefer to do
I have all of my phals potted in wood baskets with reasonably packed sphagnum. I go back and forth trying to decide between two watering habits. (I use a pump sprayer, RO water with 25ppm of k-lite every watering)
1. Drench the moss til it's sopping wet and not water again until it's completely dry (about every 2 or 3 days)
2. Spray the surface of the moss lightly and often to maintain even moisture
A list of my phals:
Phal. amboinensis
Phal. cornu-cervi var chattaladae
Phal. gigantea
Phal. bellina
Phal. hieroglyphica
Phal. lindenii
Phal. mariae
Phal. Meen Estrella (tetraspis x cornu-cervi)
Phal. pulchra (a free gift from Mr. Peter Lin of Big Leaf )
Phal. violacea var. alba
Phal. speciosa
Phal. zebrina
Some are larger plants and some are NBS seedlings. I would prefer to treat them all the same. Which of those two methods would you prefer and recommend??
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09-09-2020, 09:10 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Age: 29
Posts: 701
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I think you can increase the ppm N a bit more, considering Sphagnum retains nutrients.
My Phal get around 250 ppm N every two weeks, they seem to appreciate and don't show fertiliser burns.
The way you water comes really down to personal preference, a dry cycle every 2/3 days seems pretty nice.
I tend to spray the surface daily when humidity is low, it helps with new roots!
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09-10-2020, 02:15 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
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If it's warm enough to dry within 2-3 days I would continue the soaking. If your growing area cools down in winter I wouldn't soak sphagnum then.
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09-10-2020, 09:35 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
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Sphagnum in a basket will dry pretty rapidly. In my experience, phals prefer an even level of moisture - neither sopping nor dry.
I disagree with the higher dosage of fertilizer, especially if you’ll be watering every few days. If the medium retains the nutrients well, you want to apply a low concentration.
We must keep in mind, however, that MrFakename’s 250 ppm N every two weeks isn’t really that much different from 25 ppm N every other day.
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09-10-2020, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
If the medium retains the nutrients well, you want to apply a low concentration.
We must keep in mind, however, that MrFakename’s 250 ppm N every two weeks isn’t really that much different from 25 ppm N every other day.
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Oh yeah for sure Ray, I also feed them in small quantities but regularly, and didn't say 250 is THE thing to go by.
My thinking is that 25 * 7 = 175 ppm N, and part of that is going to be sequestrated. So increasing a tad could make up for it.
The unknown data is how much the moss absorbs/loses every time it's drenched and how much it gives back when saturated.
It might be interesting checking with a TDS meter.
The wonderful things about Phal is their ability to reuse nutrients from old leaved before clearly suffering from deficiency, so as long as they look healthy, I guess it's not something to be concerned about.
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09-10-2020, 12:59 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Location: Coastal southern California, USA
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I have found that my Phal species do much better in baskets than in pots. (Hybrids do fine in pots, they're more domesticated) I grow all of the Phals in the greenhouse, quite humid, so that affects how they react for me. I use sphag in small baskets, small to medium bark in larger ones. This seems to give the effect of similar moisture/drying for all. The roots end up escaping the baskets - the medium gives them the moisture they need, but they can reach out for the air as well. (I do mount a few, but it's harder to maintain moisture on those, and since they tend to grow roots in all directions, the basket approach seems to be preferable) Fertilizer is really light... when I get around to it every couple of weeks, from a pump sprayer so not much then. They (and the other orchids) don't seem to miss it. Maybe they'd be bigger with more but they grow and bloom fine.
Last edited by Roberta; 09-10-2020 at 02:53 PM..
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09-10-2020, 02:14 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Fakename
The unknown data is how much the moss absorbs/loses every time it's drenched and how much it gives back when saturated.
It might be interesting checking with a TDS meter.
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I agree. "Pieces" of bark, CHC, perlite, and LECA are much more straightforward than strands of something when it comes to imagining a mechanism.
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