I do not understand trichopilia orchids. What do they want from me?

[BrassavolaStars]

Hello all,

I have four Trichopilia orchids. One small tortilis, a very large hennisiana, and two suavis.

For the past year or so, all they do is grow progressively smaller bulbs and lose backbulbs. The suavis is particularly bad about growing smaller new growth.

These are some of the orchid species that I have been anticipating the flowers the most. I have always heard Trichopilia orchids are amazingly fragrant and the photos I’ve seen have looked outstanding.

Sadly, I have never seen (or smelled) a Trichopilia in bloom in real life. Having a blooming Trichopilia is one of my orchid bucket list experiences. Unfortunately, mine aren’t cooperating.

What am I doing wrong? I know they are supposed to be like oncidiums. Then again, I have a hard time getting oncidiums outside of miltoniopsis to bloom. I am not sure I’ve ever rebloomed a non-miltoniopsis or psychopsis oncidium. That being said, I have very few oncidiums so the sample size is small.

In terms of culture, I have the Trichopilia orchids growing in either small bark or moss in warm conditions with moderate light. They also get weak fertilizer weekly.

I sometimes wish oncidiums were as easy to bloom as cattleyas, dens, or vandas.

[SouthPark]

I think that - once they get big enough, they'll bloom for sure. On the other hand, those mini oncidiums like twinkles can bloom at a really young age.

I'm thinking - just provide recommended temperature, recommended lighting levels, recommended humidity, and adequate water - and adequate nutrients and elements every once in a while ...... and they'll eventually get flowers one way or another.

Once we get them to grow in the right direction (bigger), they will flower. Just a matter of TIME.

[Ray]

The fact that the new growths are progressively smaller says something in your overall culture is not to their liking. With no further input, I’d guess they’re too warm.

Most do best with daytime temperatures in the low 70’s and nights in the low-, to mid 50’s.

[Dollythehun]

I'm growing two of those. I fertilize 1/2 tsp to 3 gallons of rainwater, when I think of it. They're watered when the moss approaches dryness or 3x a week. Other than having a few crappy leaves (Oncidium family) I have no problems. Growing under nearly Catt level light with good air circulation. I recently posted the blooming plants. One is in small bark and plastic; Suavis in moss and clay.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by BrassavolaStars

What am I doing wrong?

In order to answer that particular question - will require providing adequate details/description of the growing conditions. Temperature range that the orchids are experiencing, lighting levels and duration of exposure of plants to light, humidity, pot type and drainage details (if any), media type, watering schedule, state of roots, state of media ..... as much details as possible.

[BrassavolaStars]

Hello all,

To be more specific, they are grown is cattleya light with lasts the entire day and they get water with .15 strength fertilizer every 5-7 days.

In terms of temperature, the greenhouse in daytime temps is around 73F on an overcast day and 88F on a sunny day. At night it’s about 66F. The humidity is around 50%.

The hennisiana is definitely blooming size as its leaves are about 8 inches long. It is in a 6 inch basket filled with moss. One suavis is in a 3.5 inch pot with fine bark, the other is in a 3 inch basket with moss. The tortilis is in a 2 inch pot with moss and fern. I expect the smaller suavis and tortilis are not blooming size. The larger suavis should be blooming size to my knowledge.

[Dollythehun]

That's warmer than I grow mine. Here are my notes (again, I apologize):


Light:

* needs a light level of 12000-20000 lux. The light should be filtered or dispersed, and the plants should never be exposed to direct sunlight. Strong air movement should be ensured all the time, especially in the case of the plants grown in lighter conditions, because their quite thick leaves are susceptible to burns.

Temperature:

*It is a plant with moderate thermal requirements. The average temperature of the day in summer is 22 ° C, night 13 ° C, and the amplitude of daily fluctuations is 9 ° C. The average winter temperature is 22-25 ° C during the day and 11-12 ° C at night, giving a daily difference of 11-14 ° C.

Humidity:

*The Soft Trichopilia needs the humidity of 85-90% for most of the year, with a fall to 65-70% in late winter.

Substrate, growing media:

*Trichopilia suavis grow well attached to pieces of tree ferns or cork, with high humidity ensured and daily watering during the summer. During the dry and hot periods it may be necessary to water several times a day.

*They can also grow in pots with a loose substrate, quickly draining excess water, which, however, contains substances that retain a certain amount, such as cut sphagnum moss or perlite. Wood charcoal is also often added to ensure the air permeability of the substrate and protection against acidification.

Repotting:

*The plants should be replanted before the substrate begins to be less permeable. The most appropriate time of the year for repotting is the end of winter preceding flowering, as flowers and new growths appear almost at the same time. Therefore, the plants should be repotted when new roots start growing or only a little earlier. This allows the plants to acclimatize in a relatively short time and provides them with the least stress. This is very important, because the plants must acclimate to the additional stress caused by the approaching hot, dry, summer weather.

Watering:

*Precipitation is intense all year round, but at the end of winter there is a relatively short dry season. From the end of spring to autumn, Trichopilia suavis should be moist, with only slight drying of the substrate between subsequent waterings. When new growths reach maturity in late autumn, the amount of water should be gradually reduced."

[Roberta]

My success rate with Tricopilias hasn't been great. After failing totally with them in the greenhouse, I have moved them to my southern California outdoors. They tend to be "narrow range" ... the people who grow warm consider them cool growers, those with winters like mine (frost free but cool) consider them warm growers. I just had a T. tortilis bloom after several years of sulking... and last summer was a lot cooler than in several prior years. I have had several other things that are blooming, that skipped several years with hot summers. So it's an untested hypothesis. But there does seem to be a pattern. Other conditions are generic - moisture, good drainage, good air movement, bright shade. So what it takes to be successful with these definitely goes beyond the "generic" advice that you may get. Just for grins, I have the same issue with Miltoniopsis - wanting a rather narrow temperature range, not hot and and not cold. Hard to achieve.

[BrassavolaStars]

Update:

I had to pay fedex shipping costs, but I now have a blooming trichopilia.

I can send a photo if anyone is interested. I cannot take credit for the blooms as I received it in bud.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by BrassavolaStars

I cannot take credit for the blooms as I received it in bud.

You can take credit for sharing photos that you take of the blooms!!!!! And also the credit for being able to acquire one, and opportunity to grow one.