Can I grow orchids in a glass jar with no medium? Pictures...

[Hcurab]

First post here! I have some orchids. Some were in moss and some were in bark.

I don’t like bark because the water drains so easily that the roots don’t even get saturated. It’s impossible for me to tell if the roots are even hydrated.

Moss. It’s much better for my watering schedule. But I feel like I need to compact it in order to stabilize the plant, and I feel like the roots won’t be able to breathe.

Now, I pretty much came up with this on my own. Don’t know if it’s been done before, so let me know if it’s even a viable method for growing orchids.

This is my theory: correct me if wrong

It involves glass vases and have no drainage holes, nor potting media. I’m able to fill the vase with water for about 10 seconds, dump out all the water, and let the roots breathe. I have a mist fertilizer that I can spray the roots every few weeks. I’m able to see all the roots, and the slightly moist vase will allow for a humid environment that the orchids grow naturally in.

Pictures of my set up which I just did an hour ago:

[Hcurab]

There’s no water in the vases at all. I filled it, then dumped it out.

Would this work for orchids? Can I improve this setup?

[SouthPark]

It's workable. Just maintain a suitable temperature range, and provide adequate air movement in the growing area. And also think about occasional fertilising ..... eg. monthly or bi-monthly. Also consider using the dumped water for watering outdoor plants afterwards. Maybe that's what you do already - to make use of that water.

If the orchid is able to get enough water from your watering method and also from the air if humid enough .... then the orchid could grow. Also watch out for roots sitting in bits of remaining drained water at the bottom of the jar. Roots need oxygen. And portions of roots could run out of oxygen if water in and around it runs out of oxygen.

To reduce the amount of work required here for adding water to the jar, and dumping etc .... could consider classical methods of potting and watering.

[early]

I have had a mini phal, that was fine when I brought her home. The next weeks the 4 blooms looked droopy, and yesterday I cut the blooms and put in a glass of water. Took the leaves and roots out of S/H. There were some more root rot like it had when I put her in S/H the first week. Trimmed up the rotted roots, and stuck her in water in a small vase, with a chop stick stuck in to raise and lower it into the water, just a few good roots and only in the water a quarter of an inch. My first try at a water culture. All I know is what I have read here. Air temp and humidity is the same as the other phals I have blooming or not.

any other suggestions? I will try to post a photo soon.

[SouthPark]

early - the original roots dying (followed by growth of a new batch of better-adapted roots) when transitioning to semi-hydroponics is apparently a normal/expected.

Or at least it so far appears that suitable orchid candidates for semi-hydroponics generally need to push through this transitional root-dying and shedding phase in order to make it into the new regime.

[Subrosa]

That's known as partial or semi water culture. I grow Phalaenopsis and Vanda in full water culture. The plant sits in a plastic orchid basket which sits in a vase or other container. I keep the container filled to where about 25% of the root mass of the plant is in the water. During the transition there's some die off of existing roots, but new ones grow down into the water without issue.

[Brian1212]

this is a very viable method and a necessary method for most vanda's that need to dry out fully between waterings.
The only downside is you cannot forget to water so you need to water it 365 times per year.

Phalaenopsis are a bit more forgiving with their roots than vanda's so although your method is the best long term for your plant you could consider adding some clay pebbles to your vases. These would absorb moisture and provide moisture to the roots longer so you'd only have to water when the pebbles go dry. Entirely up to you. Moss is horrible stuff, but you should be quite happy with clay pebbles, you can see much much easier when it is dry or wet compared to bark

[early]

Originally Posted by Brian1212

most vanda's that need to dry out fully between waterings.
The only downside is you cannot forget to water so you need to water it 365 times per year.

Phalaenopsis are a bit more forgiving with their roots than vanda's so although your method is the best long term for your plant you could consider adding some clay pebbles to your vases. These would absorb moisture and provide moisture to the roots longer so you'd only have to water when the pebbles go dry.

Moss is horrible stuff, but you should be quite happy with clay pebbles,

I am allergic to moss, causes asthma. I have bark, but have not used it, as I prefer S/h

I had forgotten that Vandas need to dry out before watering. I have only had two small seedlings for a month and have not transplanted them yet, primarily because I was busy with Covid 19 in my county But I will today. Hope they are ok

FWC is an experiment for a mini phal that had very droopy blossoms.
I will add some LECA to the bottom of the vase in my phal that was not doing well.

All my 16 other Phals have loved living in LECA for many months, and are all either blooming or rapidly growing new leaves.

[tasha]

This is how I grow most my orchids now and I love it. Fwc or semi hydro set up. No more messing with mediums and changing it out. And my orchids are thriving! Blooming like crazy. I think the south facing window helps a lot.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by tasha

This is how I grow most my orchids now and I love it. Fwc or semi hydro set up. No more messing with mediums and changing it out. And my orchids are thriving! Blooming like crazy. I think the south facing window helps a lot.

Nice! The most important thing is that it works excellently for very long term. And if for some reason we have to take a break or holiday, then we have a back-up plan for watering etc ....... such as somebody helping out as a favour, or a reliable automated watering system.

For a limited number of orchids (some limit) - FWC or S/H should be quite workable. I haven't tried it yet though.