Light question (Phalaenopsis)

[tedro]

Originally Posted by Ray

“Burning” is all about photon flux - too much from any light source can burn leaves.

Every plant has a range of “photon volume” (aka “daily light integral” or DLI) it needs to do best. That can be guesstimated by intensity x time. If you read a culture guide and get a recommendation of “so many“ foot candles, if switching to artificial light, the plant will need a continual level of light at about half that. (READ THIS).

If you don’t have a light meter, the best you can do is try the “shadow” method: hold your hand about a foot above the plant, between it and the light source. Move the light closer or farther until you can barely discern a shadow on the plant. That’s a reasonable level for a phal. Be observant - if the plant starts looking really dark green after several weeks, move the lamp a little closer.

Thank you! I did read the article.

I am curious about your use of the word “continual,” 24x7 is probably not what that refers to?

Here’s my deal/my question-to-self when i read the moth orchid tag that said “indirect” and whatever (can’t remember) else it said that indicated that possibly I could have a beautiful FLOWERING plant in my dark and at times dank apartment.
so I thought I’d give it a try. Not willing to test the limits of low light on the plant I decided to see what I could do for it to thrive and boy is it thriving. Or at least seems to be. however, this is high maintenance. And for me it would have to be very low maintenance.
For example the location of this plant the only location I really have for it requires me to more or less put it to bed and wake up each day because I have to open and close my lanai curtain every day and morning. And that requires me to move a little supplemental lamp around and move the plant around several times a day.
I could probably get a better lamp with timer of course, and relocated to a table more inside the apartment. But that’s not the lamp fixture I have and the table is not exactly suited — Maybe it could be.

But for now I just want to see what it does and is doing quite well whether I can keep this up or will want to or relocate at the lower end to see how it does is all another question.

But that’s kind of why am asking all these questions plus it’s very interesting.

I may be overdoing it a bit I should probably cut my lamp back to 13 hours instead of 14.

Thank you very much!!!maybe it could be.

But for now I just want to see what it does and is doing quite well whether I can keep this up or will want to or relocate at the lower ends to see how it does is all another question.

But that’s kind of why am asking all these questions plus it’s very interesting.

I may be overdoing it a bit I should probably cut my lamp back to 13 hours instead of 14; and, I’m beginning to move my lamp back a little not so close. The light meter so I have I have about three of them as apps on my phone, Or kind of not consistent and all over the place. I find a little app called Plant Light, to be the most useful even though it’s probably pretty much the same as the shadow method or about as accurate. But it seems that with my little lamp in the daytime I’m probably getting “medium” light.

attached meter image (‘Korona’ ios app).
also found this article: MechaTronix - Typical PPFD and DLI values per crop
I’ve also seen this: Suggested maximum light intensities for some common orchid genera are 1,500 foot-candles for Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum, 2,500 foot-candles for Miltoniopsis and Zygopetalum, 3,000 foot-candles for Cattleya, and 5,000 foot-candles for Brassia, Cymbidium, Degarmoara, Dendrobium and Oncidium.

and this (not a member, just looking for DLI stuff — these are only my quickest google search results): How much PAR are your orchids getting? | Slippertalk Orchid Forum- The best slipper orchid forum for paph, phrag and other lady slipper orchid discussion!

If any of that is incorrect, please comment!

Thank you very much!!!

ps. i may well be overdoing it! which would be good, to me. Next is to back off and see what happens. Or get another phal and see if it does anything more than survive at the lowest end. probably not going to do that!

[Ray]

Originally Posted by tedro

I am curious about your use of the word “continual,” 24x7 is probably not what that refers to?

"Continual" is meant to describe "the same intensity from lights on to lights off", rather than dark-to-max-to-dark as is the case for sunlight.

Here’s my deal/my question-to-self when i read the moth orchid tag that said “indirect” and whatever (can’t remember) else it said that indicated that possibly I could have a beautiful FLOWERING plant in my dark and at times dank apartment.

Phals can tolerate very dark conditions. In nature, they live very low in the forest canopy, so probably never see much light. Without a doubt, the best phals I've ever seen were in a greenhouse so algae-covered that it took several minutes for they eyes to adjust after entering it.

However - it will take some time for the plants to adjust to lower light levels, so they may skip a year of blooming while they adjust.

I may be overdoing it a bit I should probably cut my lamp back to 13 hours instead of 14.

One hour won't make much difference.

I also found this article: MechaTronix - Typical PPFD and DLI values per crop

That might be good data, but light manufacturers are not very good about publishing PPF values, and decent meters are pricey.

[tedro]

Originally Posted by Ray

"Continual" is meant to describe "the same intensity from lights on to lights off", rather than dark-to-max-to-dark as is the case for sunlight.

Phals can tolerate very dark conditions. In nature, they live very low in the forest canopy, so probably never see much light. Without a doubt, the best phals I've ever seen were in a greenhouse so algae-covered that it took several minutes for they eyes to adjust after entering it.

However - it will take some time for the plants to adjust to lower light levels, so they may skip a year of blooming while they adjust.
One hour won't make much difference.

That might be good data, but light manufacturers are not very good about publishing PPF values, and decent meters are pricey.

Thanks! an hour less and some distance. — distance is important because the farther away the less interaction/maintenance. let’s moving around either the light or the plant. In a situation like mine will you try to live in the same room the plant lives in. Pretty much. and there is the just right there. Again 2 foot parlor palm and a 3 foot lucky bamboo and an air plant seem to love it. I like it cold at night. ) and that’s something about these newfangled LED type bulbs too, no heat. Another factor to deal with where it might be helpful occasionally, but alas just more maintenance!!!

I will say that this little guy has been spectacular. And this forum is the greatest!!!

---------- Post added at 05:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:01 PM ----------

Originally Posted by SouthPark

That will be related to: "direct sunlight lighting" and "indirect sunlight lighting".

But if you refer to artificial light, I guess that you could look at it in the same way. If the artificial light source is powerful enough, then it can also burn or cook an orchid.

One method for avoiding scorching issues is to place the plant in a spot where the path of light is not a direct path - or rather, in a spot where light intensity is not high enough to burn parts of the plant.

For artificial lighting - considerations can be distance between artificial light and the plant, and maybe usage of suitable 'diffuser' assemblies.

Exactly! Thank you, SouthPark!