Phalaenopsis ARK Green Angel with yellow, translucent leaf spots

[Wilder]

Hi orchidboard!

I got myself my first Phalaenopsis a week ago. When I got it at the nursery, it looked picture-perfect. The roots were healthy, the leaves were firm and unblemished. It has two spike buds towards the bottom.

Given that it is potted in moss, it takes a while to dry up. I water it once every 5-6 days with RO water, when the roots begin to look silvery. The last I watered was yesterday.

I have it in my hall- bright but no direct sun, moderately airy.

This morning, I noticed that the bottommost leaves have yellow patches on them. These areas are firm to touch.

Any idea what this is? Is it something I need to be worried about? What could I do about it?

I would appreciate any insight, please!

[aliceinwl]

I’d just keep an eye on it, as long as they’re not mushy and don’t spread, they’re likely cosmetic. I’ve found that cold damage can take days to show up. I got a Phalaenopsis at a show from an out of country grower that developed similar spots and I’m suspecting refrigerated shipping somewhere along the way.

[Wilder]

Originally Posted by aliceinwl

I’d just keep an eye on it, as long as they’re not mushy and don’t spread, they’re likely cosmetic. I’ve found that cold damage can take days to show up. I got a Phalaenopsis at a show from an out of country grower that developed similar spots and I’m suspecting refrigerated shipping somewhere along the way.

Thank you!! I spent my whole morning drowning in worry. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens.

[Veksa]

Wilder, read on repoting, this particular "pot" is not good, because it does not allow air to the rots, especially because it is potted in moss.

[aliceinwl]

The pot it’s in now may be working okay under Wilder’s conditions. In any case, the roots are really easy to monitor. If the roots continue to look good, I’d let the plant settle in before rushing into a repot, but it probably will require a repot within the next year so it’s good to start acquiring supplies.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Those dark spots could be a bacterial infection. Emphasis on could. You already have a baseline photo, might want to compare what it looks like each day to your baseline photo.

Some bacterial infections appear dark in the middle, become soft and watery, often with a yellow halo surrounding the edge of the dark spot. The spots can increase in diameter rapidly over a day or two. Keep an eye on it, if the spots become noticeably larger, bacterial rot should be suspected. If the spots don't change, just keep an eye on it.

Treatment of a bacterial rot involves cutting off the leaf (all or part) with a very sharp sterilized blade (such as a single edge razor blade). Sterile means heat, such as in a flame or on a kitchen range top (not alcohol), then cool. Cut a centimeter beyond the damage through healthy leaf tissue. After that, keep fairly dry for a week or so, water very carefully afterwards.

[Wilder]

Originally Posted by aliceinwl

The pot it’s in now may be working okay under Wilder’s conditions. In any case, the roots are really easy to monitor. If the roots continue to look good, I’d let the plant settle in before rushing into a repot, but it probably will require a repot within the next year so it’s good to start acquiring supplies.

About the pot, the nursery I got the orchid from has all their phals in these plastic things without holes or slits save for the one drainage hole at the bottom. I, too, assumed it would be okay given the light, air and humidity I get in my house. The roots look very healthy- thick, firm and green.

---------- Post added at 11:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer

Those dark spots could be a bacterial infection. Emphasis on could. You already have a baseline photo, might want to compare what it looks like each day to your baseline photo.

Some bacterial infections appear dark in the middle, become soft and watery, often with a yellow halo surrounding the edge of the dark spot. The spots can increase in diameter rapidly over a day or two. Keep an eye on it, if the spots become noticeably larger, bacterial rot should be suspected. If the spots don't change, just keep an eye on it.

Treatment of a bacterial rot involves cutting off the leaf (all or part) with a very sharp sterilized blade (such as a single edge razor blade). Sterile means heat, such as in a flame or on a kitchen range top (not alcohol). Cut a centimeter beyond the damage through healthy leaf tissue. After that, keep fairly dry for a week or so, water very carefully afterwards.

That's very good insight, I will keep an eye on the size and general nature of the spots over time. They seem to remain unchanged as of today.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer

Those dark spots could be a bacterial infection. Emphasis on could.

Those watery/jelly looking patches in photo #2 could certainly be bacterial. Definitely with you on that one.

Originally Posted by Wilder

moderately airy.

Wilder --- if the area is not still-air for long periods of time (eg. half an hour or an hour of still air, or hours of still-air), then that could lead to raise the chances of fungal attack.

Growing in spaghnum moss or moss can work - but usually works when in the hands of a grower that has worked out roughly how much water to apply - without creating water-logged roots and media conditions. The watering arrangement usually also takes into account how good the drainage is for the pot.

A regular pot with lots of decent sized holes around the bottom of it, and around the bottom rim --- will be good. If the floor that the pot rests on covers or blocks the holes, then a stand or a grate should be used to ensure there are no hole blockages.

If you don't want to deal with uncertainty about water-logging in moss, then try a media such as volcanic rock pieces (eg. 5 mm to 8 mm average diameter), or use orchid-safe bark pieces. You can always use sphagnum in the future if you want.