NoID phalaenopsis advice for newb

[Nemesisthewarlock]

So I bought a phal from a big box store... two, actually.
They seem happy so far.

And I'm about half way through the 'Phal abuse stops here' thread... and still reading, but not seeing anything helpful for this yet.

The first one I put on mopani wood in a bowl with a living sphagnum bog in the base, just to cope with our excessive dryness. It seems to be doing well apart from shock in being moved and dropped a bloom or two - my first query on that is about the first picture you see below - is it further bloom spike growth at the tip, or will we have the patter of little keiki about the place?

Second query is about the moisture levels, see second photo... the roots have sphagnum pad and a bit on top, loosely. I put the wood up on a piece of stone because it was continually wicking moisture into the sphagnum around the roots, and it dried right out overnight.

Should I let it dry out completely given that our house is dry in an arid/desert area? Or is it ok to have almost continual moisture as long as the roots can breathe? Obviously, I wouldn't let it wick up in the cooler winter temps.

Third question is about the second plant, I haven't mounted it yet, however have noticed a distinct whorling of the inner, newer leaves. Is this a known phenomenon with phalaenopsis? See pics 3&4.

It's damaged itself by the leaves cutting themselves on the support stake for the spike. Should I just remove these and pat the cut with cinnamon? Or just let it do it's thing? I'd only be overly concerned if this was caused by a viral issue, however I know nothing about phal orchids really, apart from all the conflicting info I've read.

Please weigh in, any phalaenopsis experts with any opinions to offer - I'll be most grateful.

[aliceinwl]

I think with the mounted Phalaenopsis you’d be safe watering whenever the moss is almost dry / barely damp. The Tillandsia is not going to want it’s base to be stay wet/damp or have water sitting for extended periods in the leaf axels.

It looks like the second Phalaenopsis’s leaf may have gotten hung up on a root or something while it was growing. If the plant orientation towards the light source also shifted, this could lead to twisting. I wouldn’t do any cutting.

[Nemesisthewarlock]

Originally Posted by aliceinwl

I think with the mounted Phalaenopsis you’d be safe watering whenever the moss is almost dry / barely damp. The Tillandsia is not going to want it’s base to be stay wet/damp or have water sitting for extended periods in the leaf axels.

It looks like the second Phalaenopsis’s leaf may have gotten hung up on a root or something while it was growing. If the plant orientation towards the light source also shifted, this could lead to twisting. I wouldn’t do any cutting.

Thanks so much, you're a champ.
Hand holding accomplished!
The roots have plenty of air flow so I'll leave it and err on the side of underwatering - I also was thinking of the Tillandsia.
Cheers!

[DirtyCoconuts]

As a very general rule, don’t prune orchids.


There are a lot of exceptions and time when you would cut off something you don’t want but as far as cutting healthy plant parts, for any of the reasons you’d do it to a traditional plant, don’t do to an orchid.

[Nemesisthewarlock]

Originally Posted by DirtyCoconuts

As a very general rule, don’t prune orchids.


There are a lot of exceptions and time when you would cut off something you don’t want but as far as cutting healthy plant parts, for any of the reasons you’d do it to a traditional plant, don’t do to an orchid.

Cheers! Thought as much, just as long as it doesn't interfere with the next set of leaves. Although a continued distortion of that type might be interesting, lol.