Damage caused by water in between dried leaves

[BrassavolaStars]

Hello all.

I have another issue with a Zygopetalum.

This plant is mostly fine but when I was pulling off some of the dead and dried up sheaths on one of the relatively new growths, the bottom section of the growth had water stuck between a dried up leaf and where the bulb meets the rhizome. The result of this accident is pictured.

What should I do? I already picked off some of the really degraded watery spots.

I was thinking to spray physan and peroxide and dust with cinnamon (avoiding the roots of course).

I always try to make sure water stays away from in between the leaves, some how this one just “slipped through the cracks”. The area isn’t soft. It is a bit grayish/brownish though.

Sorry about the sideways pictures but I don’t know how to change them on my iPad.

[SouthPark]

Do you have a collection of systematic fungicides (orchid-safe ones)? Could apply a systematic fungicide.

And could also try watering just the root section and the media. This just means that the section having the issue can remain mostly dry if you use a watering wand to water just the roots and media.

Ensure good air circulation to the plant (leaves, roots and media in the pot) - one of the golden rules.

The way you have the orchid potted right now, with a bunch of roots sitting above the media ------ appears to be very good in fact - as it would allow you to water the roots and media only - allowing you to avoid those regions that are getting water damage.

[thefish1337]

i never worry about water between leaves as long as i have air circulation around the plants and i'm using inocucor/garden solution. ive avoided fungal/bacterial rots for 4 years now. in nature they are soaked in the crown all the time and as long as they dry out reasonably fast and are colonized by beneficial bacteria the risk of rots are low. treat with a systemic and get your environment in check-

[BrassavolaStars]

Which systemic is a good choice? I have cleary’s and alliete. I also have some non-systemic stuff like physan and immuneox. It is strange for this to happen because I have a lot of air circulation and sunlight in the greenhouse. Most of the sick plants I have posted about were either inside my house or on the patio. This is the first one to have an issue in my greenhouse.

---------- Post added at 03:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:28 PM ----------

Hopefully I shouldn’t need to cut anything off and the systemic should be enough. Maybe I will get this plant probiotic too as I keep hearing positive things about it.

[SouthPark]

If the damage looks just minor or superficial, benign-looking, then maybe it'll be just ok to just allow that region to dry - and everything should be ok. But - just in case, a little spray of cleary's 3336 will definitely be ok.

---------- Post added at 08:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:42 AM ----------

Originally Posted by thefish1337

i never worry about water between leaves as long as i have air circulation around the plants and i'm using inocucor/garden solution. ive avoided fungal/bacterial rots for 4 years now.

Definitely. Whatever works for the long-term is extremely good. I've basically just stuck to a few golden rules involving good air-circulation (air-movement) around leaves, media and roots; avoid water stagnation around leaves and roots (which is benefited by air-movement and choice of growing media); adequate light level; comfortable temperature levels.

The only other things I supply to my orchids are water, weak fertilizer (weak/monthly), cal-mag (weak/monthly). Occasionally, I may use something like Ezi-root gel or Auxinone - which I keep, which are pretty good.

I've had zero cases of rot or fungus or virus for a few decades. I don't think there's much that can be done about viruses - not much can be done about that - except to make plant 'backups' (ie. divisions - and spread them out a bit).

But I do have an arsenal of 'goodies' (fungicides etc) - just in case, of which some are used for pre-treating every orchid that arrives by post.

I have lost approximately 3 orchids in my life - due to my fault. Extremely disappointing. They were catts. This was when I was first beginning orchid growing, and didn't know about certain golden rules. This was a relatively long time ago.

But once the golden rules are known and applied - they definitely help to cut down on or even eliminate the most pressing problems - like rot.

---------- Post added at 09:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:02 AM ----------

Originally Posted by BrassavolaStars

I have a lot of air circulation and sunlight in the greenhouse.

This is a good thing. The other thing to consider is what might be happening in the problem regions. As in ----- in the greenhouse, are there any significant amounts of time where the air remains still? Eg. at night or during the day - for some number of hours.

Is the green house equipped with water-proof/water-resistant fans for moving air through the green house?

For rainy days, does water pour down onto the orchids, where - after the rains - the water remains trapped for long enough time and the unwanted activity can start up?

Also - from observations of the photos, I can't really see anything that looks nasty. Letting it just dry out might be ok, and monitor the situation closely.