Yellowing and Black Tips on Cattleya Hybrid Seed Pods

[NeonKraken]

I've had a Cattleya hybrid developing seed pods for about a month. They seemed like they were doing well until a few days ago when I noticed yellowing and shriveled, black areas on the tips. It kind of just came out of nowhere, they seemed super healthy and like they were growing well before. I'm really new to the seedpod game so I could have made some dumb mistake but at the moment I can't think what it could've been. Is there any way I can salvage them or are they too far gone? Thanks in advance.

[SouthPark]

Does this orchid grow outdoors or indoors? What sort of growth conditions? Temperature, amount of light, watering details - how it is watered, whole plant watered or just roots and media, and how much etc.

Does the plant have any water lodged inside the sheath and causing bacteria issues?

[NeonKraken]

It grows indoors in a small tiered indoor greenhouse with a small fan running constantly. It is on the tier closest to the growlight. I water it by placing it in a basin, watering it through the top, and letting it soak for a while then draining it.
As far as I know it's not waterlogged.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by NeonKraken

....watering it through the top, and letting it soak for a while then draining it.
As far as I know it's not waterlogged.

Thanks for mentioning those details. To check..... split the sheath right open. And inspect for dampness etc. Also, you mentioned watering through the top. Does that mean you water the whole plant including leaves and sheath?

[Ray]

I suspect you're looking at nothing more than pollination that did not "take".

A capsule will stay green for months while it matures, then start to yellow at the ends when it is mature.

When we pollinate a flower, immediately the pollen tubes start to grow so the genetic material can reach down into the ovary. That initiates flower collapse and the swelling of the ovary. If there is a genetic incompatibility, that's as far as it goes, and this is the typical result.

[NeonKraken]

Originally Posted by SouthPark

Thanks for mentioning those details. To check..... split the sheath right open. And inspect for dampness etc. Also, you mentioned watering through the top. Does that mean you water the whole plant including leaves and sheath?

I try to stay away from the leaves and sheath, just close to the media. What is the safest way of doing this?

---------- Post added at 09:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:01 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Ray

I suspect you're looking at nothing more than pollination that did not "take".

A capsule will stay green for months while it matures, then start to yellow at the ends when it is mature.

When we pollinate a flower, immediately the pollen tubes start to grow so the genetic material can reach down into the ovary. That initiates flower collapse and the swelling of the ovary. If there is a genetic incompatibility, that's as far as it goes, and this is the typical result.

Good to know! I don't know if it was a matter of not taking because it had been going strong for a good three weeks. Also, the pollen is from the same plant so it wasn't genetic incompatibility. Is there anyway to salvage them or are they too far gone? Thanks.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by NeonKraken

I try to stay away from the leaves and sheath, just close to the media. What is the safest way of doing this?

Nice. For watering my orchids, I have been using a regular pump-action 9 litre weed-sprayer container filled with water, and I use the spray-wand with nozzle set to a suitable spray area (not too large, and not too small). This allows me to just spray the media and/or the roots section. A nozzle that outputs a decent rate of water will be nice - otherwise it can take ages to water all the plants.

There's a pic of my sprayer here: CLICK HERE

[Ray]

Originally Posted by NeonKraken

I don't know if it was a matter of not taking because it had been going strong for a good three weeks.

They definitely did not "take". If they had, there is very little, short of a major catastrophe of culture, that will make them stop.

Originally Posted by NeonKraken

Also, the pollen is from the same plant so it wasn't genetic incompatibility.

If the plant is a 3n (1.5x the normal ploidy), sometimes the plants are "mules" and cannot reproduce at all. I have been told that a 3n x 3n cross may take, but I have no first-hand knowledge of that.

Originally Posted by NeonKraken

Is there anyway to salvage them or are they too far gone? Thanks.

Bad news here...

[NeonKraken]

Okay, thanks anyway, they are declining. I'll try again next time it flowers! The species is C. Little Dipper 'Sato' x Lc. Tropical Aurora 'SVO'

[NeonKraken]

Should I repot it? The roots don't look great.