Yellowing Leaves and Dark Areas on Vanilla Orchid Cutting

[NeonKraken]

I've had a vanilla orchid potted with a moss pole for a couple weeks now, and it seems it is not doing so well. It came from a healthy plant and I took precautions such as cutting (and applying cinnamon to the cuts) the lower leaves and waxing the cut. It's potted in a mix of orchid bark mix and potting soil with small amounts of moss and clay pellets. For watering, I mist it when I can and soak it through the bottom when the media feels dry. I keep it on the top level of a small indoor greenhouse with a cover and grow light. Today, I noticed yellow and dark areas forming on the tips and inner parts of the leaves. They also look a bit shriveled. I don't believe it has rooted yet. What could be the issue? Thanks in advance.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

No roots?

Rootless plants often struggle a lot. It doesn't matter if you got the cutting from a healthy larger plant.

This is often why people have problems growing orchids - roots on your orchids are not healthy.

[NeonKraken]

Thanks! It does have some aerial roots but they are pretty dry. Is there anything else I can do to try and keep this alive?

[Ray]

Two things:

First, find a way to maximize the humidity around the plant. Water it heavily, then slip a plastic bag over the plant and pot (don't seal it) to simulate a greenhouse, slowing the desiccation process.

Second, consider treating the plant with a good root growth stimulant like KelpMax. Others can be used, but they are not as effective.

[NeonKraken]

Thanks! I have been treating it with root simulator. As far as the plastic bag, it is in a small indoor greenhouse (tiered with growlight, fan, and plastic cover). Should I do this anyway?

[Ray]

Originally Posted by NeonKraken

Thanks! I have been treating it with root simulator. As far as the plastic bag, it is in a small indoor greenhouse (tiered with growlight, fan, and plastic cover). Should I do this anyway?

If you're able to keep the humidity very elevated in the indoor greenhouse - 80% RH or more - no.

If I may ask, what stimulant, how are you using it, and how fresh is it?

[Swimmingorchids]

meh Ray will have you believe only his kelpmax works. Kelpmax won't do anything if the plant dries out. It needs some roots first so a high humidity setting and it should be sitting in some spagnum moss that is constantly moist till roots develop.

I have been away for a while since Ray will want to come out to arrest your plants for daring to drink anything except his precious juices, I just know I don't need it. I have tried some bog standard seaweed extract and it's working fine which is what I was looking for.

My order of importance is

1. rainwater - not tap water
2. ph level - I aim for 6.0
3. nutrients (sparingly) - not too much not too little - if no roots no nutrients better than too much
4. booster ( like kelpmax)

The reason I list them like this is because you can use a booster as your main ingredient all you want, if no 1-3 are not right, then any booster will not fix the problem but a booster like seaweed extract, superthrive or even rays magical juices can provide a boost to grow some roots

ps: the plant still looks fine, the lower leaf yellowing is due to stress and too low humidity and the upper leaf looks like it has been snapped off the stem so will die off as a result

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Swimmingorchids

meh Ray will have you believe only his kelpmax works. Kelpmax won't do anything if the plant dries out. It needs some roots first so a high humidity setting and it should be sitting in some spagnum moss that is constantly moist till roots develop.

I have been away for a while since Ray will want to come out to arrest your plants for daring to drink anything except his precious juices, I just know I don't need it. I have tried some bog standard seaweed extract and it's working fine which is what I was looking for.

My order of importance is

1. rainwater - not tap water
2. ph level - I aim for 6.0
3. nutrients (sparingly) - not too much not too little - if no roots no nutrients better than too much
4. booster ( like kelpmax)

The reason I list them like this is because you can use a booster as your main ingredient all you want, if no 1-3 are not right, then any booster will not fix the problem but a booster like seaweed extract, superthrive or even rays magical juices can provide a boost to grow.

"Welcome" back, Swimmie. After your last infantile tirade, I wasn't sure we'd ever hear from you again, but Lo and behold! You're back spewing more technically incorrect information, plus personal attacks on me, for no reason other than your attempt to assuage your pride.

(Neophyte - my apologies, but I'm merely stating science.)

If properly selected, the hormones (and other stimulants, if you're using KelpMax) can be absorbed through plant tissues other than the roots. An extended immersion in such a solution is a very effective way to rescue a desiccated plant. If your statement that it needs to already have roots to absorb them is true, why do we need a root-growth stimulant?

Nutrient ions are far less easily absorbed that way, but a tiny bit of urea might help, and it can be.

Nestling a rootless orchid cutting in moist sphagnum often leads to more rot before it leads to root growth.

Another, totally incorrect point is that I think that "only KelpMax works". I have never said that, and never will. Most stimulant products can work, but have shortcomings related to chemistry, processing, aging, storage, MOA, and the like. In my decades of researching and using them, KelpMax just happens to have a much greater positive:negative ratio than any other I've ever found. Yes, I'm enthusiastic about it; that's why I recommend it.

I figure that if I have invested as much money, effort and emotional energy in my plants as I have, they also "deserve" the best support products I can find. Not doing so would be akin to preparing for a formal event by buying a corsage for your date, booking a limo, getting a haircut, shaving, showering, putting on a tuxedo, then wearing ratty flip-flops.

[neophyte]

as others have said, as long as you keep the humidity high (and hopefully use a root stimulant), things should be okay. because the cutting is stressed from the transplant, however, it may be more susceptible to fungal/bacterial infections, which are enhanced by humidity. make sure you have adequate air flow!

ps: maybe you could try wrapping the longer roots around the moss pole and/or wrapping moss around the roots themselves.

------

to everyone on the forum, please stop arguing over ray's products. it makes people uncomfortable when fingers are pointed, and it's also tiring to have to see members bickering.

ray gives us easy access to effective products. from my understanding, he is a scientist who has experimented with numerous products and, having found several excellent ones, retails/promotes them for the benefit of all.

if you don't like his products, don't use them, and once you've made your point, just please don't continually rudely dismiss ray's suggestions.

as you've probably noticed, i like to end my posts with smileys. so i just want to say that i hope i haven't overstepped my authority; please just take this as advice from a bystander. have a great day everyone.

[NeonKraken]

I use a liquid root simulator (4-10-3 ferti-lome). I don't think the humidity in the greenhouse is that high so I will try the bag method. What is an effective way to wrap the roots around the pole without them breaking? Thanks for all of the help.