Surface Survival of Orchid Viruses

[BrassavolaStars]

Hello All,

I had a question about some of the common orchid viruses.

How long can orchid viruses survive on surfaces such as a greenhouse bench or a cutting tool like a pair of scissors?

For example, if a greenhouse bench came into contact with an infected plant and then was put in storage for 6 months (away from moisture etc.), would the bench still have active viral particles on the bench able to infect other plants?

Supposedly, Tobacco Mosaic Virus can live on dry surfaces for up to 50 years. Is this fact also true with CMV and ORSV?

Either way, it only takes 5 minutes to properly disinfect tools and surfaces thus, there is no reason not to.
However, I am still curious as to the answer to this question as I have found no information online so I thought I would ask here.

[Dollythehun]

I'd be interested in this also.

[neophyte]

because viruses are really just pieces of DNA/RNA coated in protein, they are able to crystallize (literally turn into uniform crystals) when not in contact with their hosts (such as on non-disinfected tools). crystals form when solutes became too concentrated to remain dissolved, which is why these virus-crystals tend to form in drier places. when the viruses come in contact with moist, organic material, they simply re-dissolve into individual viruses.

edit: scientists have even actually induced crystallization of viruses to figure out their outer protein structure, allowing them to better under the virus and even find potential vaccines!

[WaterWitchin]

Originally Posted by neophyte

because viruses are really just pieces of DNA/RNA coated in protein, they are able to crystallize (literally turn into uniform crystals) when not in contact with their hosts (such as on non-disinfected tools). crystals form when solutes became too concentrated to remain dissolved, which is why these virus-crystals tend to form in drier places. when the viruses come in contact with moist, organic material, they simply re-dissolve into individual viruses.

edit: scientists have even actually induced crystallization of viruses to figure out their outer protein structure, allowing them to better under the virus and even find potential vaccines!

So what does this mean from a standpoint of getting rid of those crystals? Like on a wood bench, a pair of metal snippers, plastic? Is that do-able? I'm also interested and following this thread.

[Dollythehun]

And how would you disinfect a large area? Certainly not with a "heat source" especially if the bench were wood...

[Ray]

Physan is an effective topical fungicide, bactericide, and virucide. A good, thorough wetting with an ounce-per gallon (~1:125) solution should suffice.

[WaterWitchin]

More questions: This is the Physan 20, correct? And would someone remind me how to use it on the plant itself? And dosage ratio for orchids?

And so I take it for the orchids themselves, if it's bacterial or fungal it will work on the orchid itself, but not for a virus?

---------- Post added at 08:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:14 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Dollythehun

And how would you disinfect a large area? Certainly not with a "heat source" especially if the bench were wood...

And Dolly, if you can use Physan 1T/gallon to get rid of it on inanimate objects, I would think maybe a sprayer? I might do that with my racks each year when I bring in or out.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Two other oxidizing disinfectants you can use (separately, *NOT* together):

Chlorine bleach (fine for plastics, stainless steel, not a good choice for metals that rust or otherwise readily oxidize)

Trisodium phosphate (David Johnston of Jewel Orchids told me about this several years ago, good soak for cutting tools that can rust).

Rubbing alcohol is not a good choice to eliminate viruses. I've heard it might work on some viruses (hearsay, rather than informed source), but not on all.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by WaterWitchin

More questions: This is the Physan 20, correct? And would someone remind me how to use it on the plant itself? And dosage ratio for orchids?

And so I take it for the orchids themselves, if it's bacterial or fungal it will work on the orchid itself, but not for a virus?

Yes, that is Physan 20. A teaspoon/gal was my usual dosage for plants.

It is a topical treatment, meaning that it will kill bacteria, fungi, and viruses on the plants' surface, but will do nothing about internal infections.

And Dolly, if you can use Physan 1T/gallon to get rid of it on inanimate objects, I would think maybe a sprayer? I might do that with my racks each year when I bring in or out.

Not just the racks, spray the entire growing space. Microorganisms readily populate everywhere, especially where there is a lot of water and humidity. Periodic spraying of the environment keeps them at bay, if not entirely eliminating them.

Let me add to this conversation that viral infections, while incurable, are probably the least likely ailment your plants will contract. Fungal and bacterial infections are far more likely.