What type of shade cloth is best for my situation

[Swimmingorchids]

well this post has to be the ultimate proof of turning something simple like growing orchids into a scientific debate of pure and utter nonsense.
Made me laugh anyway.

Seriously who gives a crap if the molecules in the air fly linear or along a sine wave.

Just like the hardiness zone is especially relevant for overwintering plants it is completely useless and irrelevant for orchids as a desert reaching 110F could be classed in the same hardiness zone as a mild 60F country. The hardiness does not take summer temps into consideration at all and certainly as others have already pointed out tells you nothing about light levels

---------- Post added at 02:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:16 PM ----------

Originally Posted by WaterWitchin

Okay, this brings up another question. So let's say I'm zone 6a and purchasing a regular old perennial plant for my garden. Almost all purchasing sites give you zones where it will winter over. And also tells you the plant grows in full sun. So I get my plant, plant in full sun, and it can't handle full sun in MY particular part of zone 6a. (Been there, done that.) Am I now following what you're saying?

The plant hardiness zone is useful for some ppl in extreme cliimates to see which plants will survive till next year through the winter, thats pretty much it.

Some climates go down to -20C and there are plants that can tolerate this but not many.

As to your question: first of all garden centres have no clue so if they write full sun on a plant does not necessarily mean it is true - they don't care either way - full sun plants sell better. Up to you to do your own research but generally small plants - even if full sun loving - cannot tolerate full sun while small and need a shady spot for 3 years before they can handle full sun. It is a bit of a learning experience as you are learning

[camille1585]

Originally Posted by Swimmingorchids

well this post has to be the ultimate proof of turning something simple like growing orchids into a scientific debate of pure and utter nonsense.
Made me laugh anyway.

Seriously who gives a crap if the molecules in the air fly linear or along a sine wave.

As you are a relatively new member, I would like to inform you, if you haven't read the forum rules, that posts that are rude or disrespectful are not tolerated on orchidboard. You are of course allowed to disagree with what is said, but you can do this while remaining polite and respectful.

If you poke around in the forums, you will see that there are many scientifically oriented discussions on light, nutrition, water... Just because you don't appreciate dissecting orchid growing in a technical or scientific way doesn't mean that it's wrong, and doesn't mean that other people can't enjoy those sort of discussions.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Swimmingorchids

well this post has to be the ultimate proof of turning something simple like growing orchids into a scientific debate of pure and utter nonsense.
Made me laugh anyway.

Seriously who gives a crap if the molecules in the air fly linear or along a sine wave.

Some folks like to keep to the "surface" of orchid growing, while others like to delve into the science behind it. You are welcomed to choose your own path, but you have no need to be a total ass to others for their choice.

By the way, nowhere did anyone state that "molecules in the air travel in a sine wave."

===================================
OK. Back to the subject at hand

I was disappointed with my earlier response, and decided to remedy that, so have published a calculator that can be used in conjunction with the University of Oregon chart program to estimate the maximum possible solar intensity.

[BrassavolaStars]

Originally Posted by Fairorchids

Glass lets almost all light through, while plastic & twin wall polycarb absorb about 15%.

Also, shade cloth is usually rated with a number, which indicates how much of the full sunlight it blocks.

In this part of the US (NJ/NY/CT), I would normally provide:

0-20% shade for Cymbidiums, Laelia anceps, Australian Dendrobiums, reed stem Epidendrums & Vandas.

30-40% shade for Cattleyas, Oncidiums, Ascocentrum, Aerides, Rhynchostylis, Denbium phalaenopsis & Latouria Dendrobiums.

60% shade for Angraecums, Paphs, Phals & Sarcochilus.

So, if you have greenhouse cover that absorbs 15%, add 30% shade cloth = about 60% getting through.

Then add an internal layer of 30% shade cloth over the low light plants = about 40% getting through.

Hello Fairorchids,

Thank you so much for your help. I will pick up the shade cloth value you recommended.

PS: If I am not mistaken, I believe I have a plant from you that I bought at the LI orchid show. It's Phal Bellina "Red Apple". It is doing great and I will be moving it to its new home shortly.

Sincerely,
Brassavola Stars