Advice for beginning re: struggling orchid - Orchid Board

jsg1987 · #1 03-06-2019, 10:36 AM

I've had a small orchid for two years now. It has bloomed reliably every six months. It bloomed about a month ago, but it is now showing signs of illness -- the blooms are shriveling rather than simply falling off when still healthy (as they have in the past), and the leaves are becoming yellow/brown. Pictures are below.

I'd be extremely thankful for any advice on how to salvage this struggling orchid!

WaterWitchin · #2 03-06-2019, 10:52 AM

Looks dehydrated. When was last time you repotted? Likely not a lot of root below the surface. Were it mine, I'd repot ASAP.

aliceinwl · #3 03-07-2019, 12:17 AM

I agree. The roots likely aren’t happy and it probably needs to be repotted.

How are you watering and how often? Can you pull the clear pot out of the ceramic pot and take a look at the roots: are they alive?

jsg1987 · #4 03-07-2019, 12:42 AM

Thanks for these helpful notes!

We've been watering once per week with three large ice cubes. Is that the right move, or should we adjust upward? Any risk of overwatering?

Repotting seems like the right move in light of the attached photo -- roots are starting to outgrow the current pot.

Any recommendations on particular types of pots or soil?

Dollythehun · #5 03-07-2019, 07:38 AM

In the upper right hand corner is a maroon search bar. You might use it. There is also a sticky note in the phalanopsis forum, (on the left side.) You are not watering. In the tropics, ice doesn't fall from trees. It's torture and a marketing ploy. Learn to water properly. Soak the plant thoroughly, letting the water run through. Notice the pot is heavier, water when it feels lighter. It may take a while for the leaves to plump back up.

camille1585 · #6 03-07-2019, 09:20 AM

Those roots look good, and the medium as well, so I don't think a repot is absolutely necessary yet. If you do repot, you that same clear pot if you can get the roots back in, or use a clear pot only slightly larger. As for the medium, use either pure bark or a bark based mixed.

For watering, it's best if you soak the pot instead of using ice cubes. Either soak in a container or sink, with the water level at least halfway up the pot. Leave it there 10-20 min or so (longer is not a problem if you forget about it, the plant won't die if it soaks several hours, or even an entire day). Let it drain before returning it to the cache pot. I would also suggest to not leave it in the cache pot all the time. 1- the roots are capable of photosynthesis, and need light to do that. 2- a cache pot limits the air flow. I know a lot of people who use cache pots primarily when the plants are in bloom, for decoration and stability.

As to when to water, root color is a good indicator. In the last photo you shared you can see that the roots are silvery white, which means they're dry. After watering they will turn green. Once they're turning silver you can water again. And when in doubt, wait another day. Depending on the substrate, climate and time of year, watering frequency can vary from 2 times a week or more to once every 10 days or so.

Also have a look at this thread for good information about growing Phalaenopsis: The Phal abuse ends here

Dolly- I used to be really against the just add ice method, but once I heard the reasoning behind it, it can be a good start for people who know nothing about orchids.
*Many Phals are sold in sphagnum, and when it's saturated with water, roots can suffocate and die.
*Commercial growers' advice to use 2-3 ice cubes ensures that an easily measurable dose of water is given, which then moistens the sphag rather than soaking it through and through.

Is it ideal? No. But it helps people avoid overwatering until they learn better. The problem is that many people don't want to learn better because they think ice cubes work so no need to change. The other problem is that the 'just add ice' method started being applied to bark potted orchids as well, even though water quantity isn't a problem in that substrate. And then it morphed into an acceptable way of watering....

Dollythehun · #7 03-07-2019, 09:30 AM

I understand your point, Camille. For me, it's fraught with too many "ifs." We have a wealth of research and different opinions on OB, from which to be gleaned. Soaking or pouring through... I would never suggest ice cubes... In moss, I drizzle with water, Ray uses a saucer. Research, and use the method that best suits you and the health of the plant. I agree, the roots look good.

(BTW, Camille, nice to see you're able to be more active here again. Missed you.)

camille1585 · #8 03-07-2019, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dollythehun

I understand your point, Camille. For me, it's fraught with too many "ifs." We have a wealth of research and different opinions on OB, from which to be gleaned. Soaking or pouring through... I would never suggest ice cubes... In moss, I drizzle with water, Ray uses a saucer. Research, and use the method that best suits you and the health of the plant. I agree, the roots look good.

(BTW, Camille, nice to see you're able to be more active here again. Missed you.)

Missed you too! My new job (well, since 6 months) has kept me busy, and in the winter commutes are always longer and more tiring because of the increased traffic. It's getting better as spring approaches, so I'm less drained in the evening and on my day off. (like today!)

WaterWitchin · #9 03-07-2019, 10:26 AM

Wow. I'm surprised how good those roots look as compared to the top of pot and the look of the leaves. Agree it doesn't look like it needs repotted for now.

To answer your question, yes, it is possible to overwater a phal. But your leaves show it is dehydrated. If you've had it for two years, there are probably more leaves present now, (plus a spike and blooms) than there were, so not enough water. That's perhaps why your three ice cubes aren't doing the trick now.

It's relatively easy to buy a "new" phalaenopsis, likely already in spike, and keep it alive for a year or so with that ice cube method. It's the growth and time and continuing that method that don't work well. It's a good way to start, as it's hard to overwater. More orchids, especially phals, are killed by too much water. And a lot of folks buy phals for the bloom, then quickly get tired of it once it finishes. They pitch the plant, and go buy another. Good for you to have one and continue to grow it! And grow it well, I might add, for you to have it spike and flower every six months. It's now just telling you it's time to change your method as it matures.

Easiest is to do as Camille said... soak a while, look at the color of the roots when you finish soaking. Then before you water again, make sure the roots have turned whitish/silverish again before watering.

The older really dehydrated looking leaves likely won't ever plump up again, but the new growth will look as it should.

Orchid Whisperer · #10 03-07-2019, 06:44 PM

Re-pot? Yes, probably should, even if it is just to assess the condition of the roots.

Ice? I am firmly in the "no" camp with DTH. Anecdotally, some people claim it works. I prefer to flush water through the pots, not water again until nearly dry.

The decorative container that snugly covers the plastic pot with drainage holes (aka _REAL_ pot), I toss the decorative one when the plant comes home. Or clean it up and it becomes a pencil holder or something. Use something roomy if you want a decoration to hide the plastic pot (you want air space all around it). IMO those things kill roots.