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02-29-2008, 10:42 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sydney
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Hydrogen Peroxide in Water
I find it really hard to time the watering of all my plants, since this summer has been the coolest, wettest for decades. In short, im having general problems with root rot and until i get the watering right, i want to help the plants out with some kind of 'edge', a fungacide or preventative to help me out a bit
I tried a systemic fungacide recently, but that's super expensive and i want to save the bulk of it for the true winter.
I have tonnes of Mancozeb, but that's more for leaf spot as i understand - but would this work for root rot as an additive to general watering?
Also i have tonnes of Hydrogen peroxide, which is cheap, so could i add a very dilute amount to each watering to help? Although i've never heard of anyone trying this before.
P.S I did a quick search and apparently people DO use it, although more commonly in hydro setups.
Quick Grow South Articles
Hydrogen peroxide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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02-29-2008, 04:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 52
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Same here, what is it with all the rain would be very interested to hear about h2o2 and what others think.
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02-29-2008, 06:47 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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Age: 77
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I have been using H2O2 in my feed water for about 6 years now and it is an important part of my Cymbidium seedling program. It keeps pathogens in check and provides my plants with an O2 boost Some things to remember though, if you want to lower the bug count in your feed water, you need to give H2O2 time to do its job ,about 6 to 8 hours . It is cheap and you use so little of it . I use 14 mls to 200 liters in my feed water
Cymbids roots never rot due to too much water, I have been standing my plants in trays of water for 7years now and I am still to see roots rot . The culprit is usually a low Ph in the pots due to the mix breaking down . The application of a good quality Dolomite lime every 4 months will help Bark,if you are lucky, will only last for 12 to 18 months. It is for this reason I stopped using bark mixes for my Cymbids Years ago . I now only use coconut husk If i could get some of the large Perlite you have in OZ I would use that . but no such luck . My Brother who lives in Melbourne , uses 15% perlite 5% canunda shells 80% coco husk, this mix outlasts bark by at least 18 months
I spray for fungi every 2 weeks alternating with 2 different contact fungicides.
Heavy rain over a long period , if your plants grow under shade cloth Like mine do , will wash not only the nutrient out of the pots but out of the plant as well. The plants immune system then weakens and allows fungi to get a foothold. It sometimes rains for three weeks here in PE and my Wife thinks I have gone soft in the head when she sees me watering during a break in the rain. But the fact is i loose fewer plant by doing this.
Fungi germinate on a temp. drop So if you see mushrooms growing on your lawn reach for the fungicide
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02-29-2008, 07:52 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
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I have a question for the chemist types . I read that it reverts back to H20 . The info. was regarding using peroxide for crown rot in Phals. I use it straight for any type of rot but based on this info . wick it back out after it stops fizzing .
Interesting thread Gin
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02-29-2008, 09:04 PM
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I don't have any information to add but I agree, this is an interesting thread. I hope more post to it.
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03-01-2008, 01:55 AM
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well i'll chime in a little as a chemistry major.
H2O2 will disproportionate (break down) into O2 and H2O over time. and it is this O2 that has the disinfectant property. H2O2 aint stable in air, so eventually it'll all become O2 and H2O regardless if itz in the bottle or in a solution u make, so just use it up as u need to
just my 2cent
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03-01-2008, 02:39 AM
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I am not a chemist but the way I Understand it the additional molecule of O2 jumps to an organic and burns it leaving H2O behind. Sunlight also breaks it down leaving water behind. You must be careful when using H2O2 35% as it can burn you as well !!! So like the actress said to the bishop wear the necessary protection ! Especially eye-wear - you dont want to ever get this stuff into your eyes it burns like hell.
H2O2 works quite well as an insecticide. I use 30mls of 35% to 5 litres of water. It is one of the few chemicals that will destroy fungi spores.
I hate using poisons as they poison you as well and you must remember that some of them accumulate in your body so years from now you wonder why your bum has fallen off!! I am experimenting at present using citronella oil as a bio-insecticide and so far so good. Has anyone tried this ?
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03-01-2008, 09:52 AM
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Hydrogen peroxide is very unstable. Once it comes in contact with organic or metallic compounds, it will decompose in a matter of minutes, if not seconds.
Des, I think you're over-diluting yours. Here in the US, the standard, drug-store grade is 3% H2O2, and it can be used straight. Your dilution is 0.21%.
If you intend to use it as a medium oxygenator, it has an extremely transient effect. Repotting into a more open, airy medium is far better.
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03-01-2008, 09:58 AM
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I think it is still there,after tax time might not be ..
I have not tried citronella ,interesting idea .keep us posted on the results .
The H2O2 we can get here over the counter is 3 % . I didn't know there was stronger stuff.
A site I landed on talked about using Ivermectin injectable a cattle/ dog ect. wormer aka.... Ivermectin = Avid 1/2 teas. a gal .plus 1% Hort. oil . 7 days apart . Anyone tried it for bugs ? It is oily I use it for scaley leg in canaries one drop straight on the back of the neck . Gin
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03-06-2008, 05:48 AM
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Wow great info guys, thanks. Im glad that you get so much success with it Des, i think i'll add it to my routine and see what happens. Although the oxygenating property would be great (no matter how transient), im more interested in it as a fungacide and spore killer. I got a bottle of 6% today and i'll add it to every other watering, not certain on what rate yet.
I think i'll add a little to my mister bottle as well as a preventative for leaf rot problems and bugs.
Des i am also trying to raise 40 small Cymbidium seedlings at the moment and although they're doing OK, I lost all my previous batch to rot. They would tend to lose a leaf every now and again and then eventually would just mush at the base and fall apart. I've got a much better setup now re: air movement and humidity, but im hoping a systemic commercial fungacide twice a year and regular weak Hydrogen Peroxide in the water will see them grow up.
I'll keep you posted on how things are going.
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