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I live in Florida and have Cat's outside that bloom for me twice during the summer. (They are pretty big specimens) Believe me when I say that orchid culture changes from region to region. I started out in Omaha Nebraska, moved to Alabama and then again to Central Florida. Each time, I've had to adapt to the conditions of the region.
Since Central Florida is obviously warmer, I've had to feed more. I feed, during active growth, at 75 ppm. Personally, if you're following the package instructions, I think you're giving too much Nitrogen. I'm feeding mine 20-20-20 which comes out to 1/3 tsp per gallon. I supplement with Mag Sulfate (Epsom Salts) once a month, mixing it in with the fertilizer. Also give my fellas a feeding of SeaWeed once a month as well. (They REALLY like that) Sometimes I alternate that with KLN or Superthrive. When there is no active growth, I feed less. Because the climate is so humid, I avoid Sphagnum Moss like the plague! Just make sure you repot your babies when they need it. Once every year or two. I too think yours are getting enough sun so hang in there and you'll have blooms in no time! When you get them, we'd SURE like to see them! (We get all excited about stuff like that!) |
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I have 18 nos. of Cattleya now. And form 2009-2011 they had not blooms. I used NPK- 19:19:19 and 30:10:10 at that period and I shifted them from my orchid house to out door different places and several times. I changed the condition of light from shade to open place in direct sun light. During those changes I lost some pbulbs and created some sun burn in leaf. After all those bad experiments from the beginning of 2012 I positioned all of my Cattleyas a bright sunny place under 40% green shade net where the plants get half day sunlight. After that I used NPK 30:10:10 and sometimes 19:19:19 , Yes I agree with James mickelso about switched the ratio of NPK. When the new pbulbs were half way to maturity I used NPK 13:27:27 or 08:25:25 with micro nutrients. And last of all the result comes out. From May 2012 they bloom several times. So this is my story and here are some photographs of my cattleyas.
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Patio screen can be too much of shade, if you are talking about the common kind that appear almost black.
Then again, if the plant makes at least empty sheaths, it is ready to bloom. Something is off maybe like too much fertilizer. Otherwise, it does look really good. I hope it flowers for you. |
one other thing
some bloom from green sheaths, while others might bloom from dry / brown / "dead" sheaths. r |
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Way too much potassium, and overall fertilizer concentration is too high. They need calcium and magnesium, and less of everything else.
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Guys, I see some yellow on the leaves in the set of pics. Is that due to too much light/sun?
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Thank you |
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You need to check you root health. If you have good root health, 50% shade cloth(under full sun), good humidity, and frequent waterings. You'll find that a very small amount of complete fertilizer is needed(preferably K-Lite) for your plants to bloom. I use something in the range of 15-20 ppm N every watering and going lower. My growth is just as big or bigger then when i used 125 ppm N. Plants that size need no media in the pots in my opinion. In my two cents.... I would put them under a tree or patio that has strong dapple lighting, remove the media and water 4-5 times per week. Then when it starts to get cold out reduce to 1-2x per week. I don't water in the winter because it rains about once a week.
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I might have moved them into full sun under screen too fast...moving from GA to FL...and then actually moving their location on my patio a few times. Their leaves turned almost a yellow shade....this is why I thought it was too much sun under patio screen. What do you think about the fert mixture...too much with every watering? |
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