Cymbidium Golden Elf 'Sundust' HELP!

[Ray]

The fertilizer formula - by itself - is only one aspect. Following on Stefan's post, you have to think in terms of the amount (mass) applied, not just the ratio and concentration.

For example, let's say I have a plant in a 6" S/H pot. That has a volume of 2.5L, of which 50% is taken up by medium and plant, giving me 1.25L of open volume.

I use a nutrient solution that's about 125 ppm N, meaning that each liter contains 0.125g of N nitrogen.

When I water, that pot gets about 2 liters dumped in it, but I lose about 1.5 liters to flushing and drainage, which means that 500ml or 0.0625 grams of nitrogen are left in the medium and in the reservoir. If we assume the plant ultimately takes in a moderate fraction of that - let's say 20% for calculation purposes (I really don't know how much) - then the plant gets 0.0125g N per watering.

During a growing season, a poinsettia needs 1/2 g N to mature. I doubt there's a known figure for each orchid, but let's use that number. That means, therefore, that I need to feed my cymbidium 0.5/0125 = 40 times during a growing season, which is about what I do. If I fed a fertilizer with a different concentration, I'd have to adjust the number of feedings. In reality, a good grower adjusts the concentration and number of feedings accordingly.

[stonedragonfarms]

Just wondering about your lighting conditions for this plant. I agree will all of what Ray has said in his post, though I believe that the number one reason most growers can not get Cymbidiums to rebloom is lack of light.
Anyways, just curious,
Adam

[Don Perusse]

I have several Cyms and they do bloom every year. I live in SW Georgia, they are outside in a shade house from March until November. Mine do well with a cold spell, down to 40 degrees before I bring into the greenhouse.(which was just yesterday as it is predicted that the temp will drop to freezing tonite, Nov. 16th. They are in reg. deep clay pots, not reg. orchid pots and I feed regularly with 20-20-20. View my pics and you will see my Cym Dag in bloom.(30 flowers last year)

[chulaorchids]

In So. California they grew best up in hanging baskets, about 2 feet from 80% shade cloth. Lots of spikes and lots of flowers, many flowering twice during the year.
I used a fine bark and perlite mix. They got a lot of water and grew quite well with several L. anceps baskets. The ones that I grew on benches just grew, which at that smaller stage is what I was after. Temps as high as 105 and low as 26 did not bother them. The shade cloth protected them from the 26 degrees, I don't think it got under 32 under the shadecloth. Low temps in So Calif are only for 2 to 3 hours in the morning, wasn't enough to bother them.
They make great basket plants and when they were all blooming the fragrance was terrific.

[orchids3]

I find "Golden Elf" to be one of the easiest of all cymbidiums to bloom. It does need bright light 50% or more. Unlike Cattleyas, cymbidiums should not be allowed to dry out - if your are growing with cats - the cymbidium needs more water! It is a warm grower and is reliable for almost everyone here in NE Florida. Fertilize heavy during the growing season " I use Nutracote 12-3-15-7-2 on mine. It is a 180 day controlled release fertilizer. Whatever you use you do not need high phosphorus (the 2nd Number) I apply a tablespoon full per gal pot in late December. I apply it again in June.
The 7 and 2 are calcium and Magnesium - both are needed by cymbidiums. I grow outside year round in NE Florida but mist continously iif it gets below freezing. Golden Elf is said by some not to be too tolerant of freezing temperatures but have not experience a problem myself.