Help with a wilsonara hybred - Orchid Board

Paddle_grl · #1 02-13-2012, 04:17 PM

I have had a Halloween Wilsonara for about 2 years that blooms in the fall. It has been putting out a lot of new bulbs. I decided it was time to split it as it was kind of crowded in the pot. I split it in 2. Each half has two old pseudo bulbs and 1 or 2 new ones. I had read you could do these orchids semi hydroponic so that's how I set them up.
I planted them in the clay balls just like all my other phaps that are happy campers. However, the orchid seems to have stopped taking up water. The bulbs are shriveled. Very shriveled and am concerned.
Normally, I watered them once every two weeks maybe (when they were starting to shrivel.) They were in Bark from the store I bought them from. They would plump up the next day. I have been trying everything. I even set them in water overnight. The roots look great. The older leaves are starting to yellow, but I am sure that's kind of normal.
What am I doing wrong with these orchids that they are not drinking water? Do I need to replant them in bark? Are they just n shock still from being split? I didn't have to cut up any roots to split them, they split pretty good on their own.
Thanks,
Karin

camille1585 · #2 02-13-2012, 05:09 PM

Just to clarify, when you say that you set them in water overnight, do you mean that otherwise there is no water in the pot? With S/H the reservoir needs to be always full. If you're leaving it empty, then the plants may be too dry, as leca doesn't hold much water on its own.

Repotting back to bark may not be a good idea, the plants are stressed already and the move will just stress them further. How long ago did you divide and repot?

Bud · #3 02-13-2012, 05:59 PM

Camille is right, are you doing the correct S/H method? if you are ...they will not be dried and shrivelled. Theres at least 1/4 water sitting at the bottom of the pot to let the LECA wick water all the way up to moisten your roots...
can you please go to Ray's site and review your S/H methods?

Paddle_grl · #4 02-13-2012, 07:11 PM

I use the right method. I set them in water overnight to see if it would help. Plastic tupperware with two holes in the side. Always water down there. I've had all my other S/H for over 2 years and they are just fine, just phaps are a little different I guess. I re-potted them on Wednesday, so it's been 5 days. I didn't think they would be too stressed as there wasn't too much trauma in separating them. I'm not much of a Farmer, so patience is a little bit of an issue on my end.

camille1585 · #5 02-14-2012, 04:30 AM

I was just checking, to be sure!
Paphs are remarkable when it comes to S/H in that they adapt well no matter at what stage of growth they are transferred.

For these new ones, were the new growths just starting roots, or were they already well rooted? As you may already know since you do S/H already, you need to time the transfer with brand new root growth so that they grow down perfectly tailored to the wet environment. The old roots will eventually die, though some hang on for quite some months. The other thing is that Oncs don't grow new roots very well from old bulbs, making it especially important to have new growth!

Since it's only been 5 days, maybe you should put one back into bark, as insurance in case S/H completely backfires. It would be a shame to lose both.
What you can do to help smooth the transition to S/H is use some KLN to stimulate roots, and even place the pots on a heat mat, which also gives a huge boost to the root system.

orchidsamore · #6 02-14-2012, 08:56 AM

Several things.

Oncidium intergenerics grow roots very slow.

You divided it a little young and small. For best results, I leave them until they have about 10-12 bulbs in a 4 inch pot before dividing. They like to be very crowded.

Commercially I will divide similar to what you did but I expect to lose 10-15% of the plants I divide when they are that small. It is just an expense for me and acceptable.

dividing an Oncidium always destroys a lot of roots. It can not be avoided. The bulbs supported by those roots will suffer. The plant will grow new roots and new pseudobulbs.

With your plant I would leave it and just be patient. Shriveled pseudobulbs on Oncidium are common and not necessarily a problem.

Rot can occur on small divisions and can be minimized by with good air circulating.

Be easy on fertilizer. The plant does not need much until you start to see a lot of new growth.

Oncidium live off the pseudobulb not as much on the roots. You have already given you plant all the water it can take with your root system so be patient and let the plant take care of itself.

Paddle_grl · #7 02-14-2012, 04:13 PM

Thank you so much for the insight! I had a feeling I had split them a little early. It's just everything I had read said you need at least one old bulb to do it. One of the new bulbs has it's own roots, the other two were just starting to shoot off. (not much of a farmer here,i.e., no patience!).
I decided to re-pot them in an Orchid mix. I'm not going to touch them, or look at them too closely until they need some water again which will probably be in a week or so. (I might have to tie my hands behind my back!) I don't usually fertilize my orchids, I use Orchid Focus grow and bloom.
I just get so frustrated because It's so hard to find correct non generic information of Orchids. Most of mine are phaps just because they are all rescued from my parents or the half dead rack at Lowe's. I love my little Halloween orchid with the little orange ballerina looking flowers. I don't grow any of my Orchid's under day light. All my plants are grown under lights as I have no windows that allow in natural light that are free from cat attack! Up until now, they've all been happy little guys. So I think I've learned a lesson in patience, yet again.
I really appreciate your knowledgeable and helpful info!