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  #31  
Old 03-01-2012, 11:50 AM
silken silken is offline
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I suppose if you didn't have too large an operation, you could strain it and take the courser remnants and put them in the blender at high speed. Then add it back to the rest of it.
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  #32  
Old 03-02-2012, 12:05 AM
keithrs keithrs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cym Ladye View Post
Discus,

The standard procedure for the Hozon system is to measure into a large container the recommended rate for application per gallon at a rate of 16-1 application rate at the end of the hose. An example would be roughly 1/2 cup to 6 gallons of water for a concentrate. The problem appears to be the heavy texture of the seaweed product as purchased and which continues to be a problem with large particles even when diluted. I am not sure a stirrer would help as I understand the large particles do not fully dissolve but straining it may be an answer. The questions are how much of the product would be lost by screening out these particles and how much would it diminish the strength of the product?

I am not familiar with the different brands of seaweed products so it may be that some have a lighter texture than others so finding one with smaller undissolved particles may be the answer.

In comment to the foliar feed: the problem encountered with those I know who have used it as a drench would certainly continue to occur in the diluted mix and would seem to me to clog a spray applicator immediately.

CL
Doesn't sound like you have a cold pressed product... The cold pressed products I have used have no solids in them and I have no problem with my hozon for my garden. May be you can brew up a "worm tea" and add it in. This will help break down the kelp.
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  #33  
Old 03-02-2012, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bballr4567 View Post
I assume it will work good with bark mixes?
Jeez, Josh. Sorry I missed that.

I am convinced that, for the most part, nutrient selection has very little to do with growing medium. Yes, media can absorb and concentrate nutrient ions, but I don't think that we should be relying on that as part of our nutritional thinking. It tells me it's important to repot more often, eliminating the concentrated salts.
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  #34  
Old 03-02-2012, 01:45 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithrs View Post
Doesn't sound like you have a cold pressed product... The cold pressed products I have used have no solids in them and I have no problem with my hozon for my garden. May be you can brew up a "worm tea" and add it in. This will help break down the kelp.
I have never used any seaweed products and can only go with the experience one orchid grower friend of mine related to me. I will pass this info on.

Thanks for the input Ray, and for Silken's suggestion of a high speed blender. Not too certain my friend's non-orchid growing wife would be too thrilled to have her blender used as a high speed centrifuge for kelp, however!

CL
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  #35  
Old 03-02-2012, 02:38 PM
keithrs keithrs is offline
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Maybe she can strain it through a paint strainer bag(water it down if need be) and throw the solids in her garden. Rose's love the stuff.
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  #36  
Old 03-02-2012, 04:13 PM
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When I was researching seaweed extracts, I rejected the dried solids, and the dehydration process can degrade the quality of the hormones - in essence, giving you a weaker product with unknown auxin/cytokinin amounts or ratios. However, as they solids themselves are good amendments, they are still useful when growing stuff in soil, and can be added in substantial volumes to partially overcome the weakening.
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  #37  
Old 03-03-2012, 11:56 AM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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I guess I did not state, but the product used was a liquid concentrate, apparently just very heavy....
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  #38  
Old 03-14-2012, 08:48 AM
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An update on the use of the product:

I have found a negative: I have to water more.

You may recall that I started by using my tropical houseplants as "guinea pigs", and they are all doing very well, but the S/H pots (I use the kind with gauges for them) are needing to be watered more often than before.

I first thought that it might be evaporation due to winter's dry air, but lately it has been very mild (15°-20° above out historical average) and moist, so that can't be the issue.

I unpotted an aglaonema (Chinese evergreen), and the root system is unbelievable!

It makes sense, doesn't it? More roots = faster water uptake.

I have not noticed that to the same extent in the greenhouse, but I water every time the sunlight gives me the opportunity, so the s/h reservoirs don't ever get a chance to be drawn down as significantly.
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:07 AM
tucker85 tucker85 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray View Post
An update on the use of the product:

I have found a negative: I have to water more.

You may recall that I started by using my tropical houseplants as "guinea pigs", and they are all doing very well, but the S/H pots (I use the kind with gauges for them) are needing to be watered more often than before.

I first thought that it might be evaporation due to winter's dry air, but lately it has been very mild (15°-20° above out historical average) and moist, so that can't be the issue.

I unpotted an aglaonema (Chinese evergreen), and the root system is unbelievable!

It makes sense, doesn't it? More roots = faster water uptake.

I have not noticed that to the same extent in the greenhouse, but I water every time the sunlight gives me the opportunity, so the s/h reservoirs don't ever get a chance to be drawn down as significantly.
That makes sense. The change that was most noticeable to me when I started using seaweed extracts was larger and more abundant roots. The logical conclusion would be that with more roots the plant can take up more water.
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  #40  
Old 03-14-2012, 10:36 AM
zxyqu zxyqu is offline
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Thanks for the update Ray. So long as all this holds up, I think this would make sense to utilize it during S/H transition period. Hopefully that'll help me turn the corner on S/H. Keep us posted
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