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10-25-2011, 10:28 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,205
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I forgot to mention that I also put together custom-made DI (deionization) systems for folks. The $65 single-cartridge type is rated at about 1/2 gallon per minute, has zero waste water, and is good for 3000 gallons before cartridge replacement is necessary. If you want it for drinking/cooking, or raise plants that want extra calcium, the upgraded system that does that is only $20 more.
It would be easy enough to "gang" the DI cartridges for greater output and life.
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10-25-2011, 06:07 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oceanside, Ca
Age: 75
Posts: 3,463
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Thanks Ray. I am going to get an RO system. I am looking at one from a local source. Since I have been watering in a 5 gal bucket, my rot problemshave lessened considerably. Not perfect I know but better than before. I feel an RO system will enhance what I am doing. I am fairly knowlegable in RO and how it works but only with large municipal systems. I'll start with a 55 gal barrel and sump pump to water. I know I have to change my culture if I want the caliber of orchids I see from others. Thanks for all your help. I enjoy your posts and info very much. James
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10-25-2011, 10:01 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Fla USA
Posts: 740
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Your de-ionizing system sounds interesting. Do you have a website that explains how it works?
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10-25-2011, 11:10 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Mid Michigan
Posts: 944
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I collect rain water... I store it in a 1000G tank, but you could store it in barrels under the benches. I pump it through a standard garden hose using a sump pump (not sure the HP, it is not huge and/or strong - maybe 1/6 HP). Decidedly low tech, I plug the pump into a powerstrip, and flip the switch when I need water. There are shutoffs at the ends of the hoses. Learned pretty quickly that I should plug in a light and my radio to the same power-strip, leaving the pump on overnight is expensive.
When I lived in an apartment in Chicago (and when I grew under lights in my basement in Michigan), I had an RO system hooked up to a very large plastic trash can with a float valve. When the water level dropped, the RO unit would fill the tank. That gave me a 'burst' volume of ~40 gallons of water, and since I only watered a couple times a week (maybe 15 gallons at a time?), it was plenty sufficient even though the system only gave me 10 gallons a day or so. I also pumped water through a hose with that system, although the pump was much smaller.
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10-26-2011, 09:54 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,205
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James,
One more thing: If your water supply is chlorinated, you need a 5-stage system; otherwise go for 4. Be sure to get a unit that uses standard components.
Also, while I fully support "buying local", you might want to compare prices with me.
In addition to a filter housing wrench and quick-connect release tool, 4 stage systems come with 3 sediment filters and a charcoal filter, so you don't have to purchase anything until it's time for the membrane in two years. The 5-stage unit includes the 3 sediment and 2 charcoal filters.
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10-26-2011, 09:58 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,205
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Orchids3 - the DI unit has a standard sealed cartridge containing ion-absorption resins in little beads. As the water passes around them, they "grab" and trap the mineral ions. Eventually, they run out of capacity (they are rated for 3000 gallons), so the cartridge has to be replaced.
There are actually 4 versions, ranging from $65 to $95 (and I can add capacity by ganging the cartridges):
Base for plants only: Sediment filter + DI Base (chlorinated water): Sediment filter + Carbon/KDF + DI Upgrade for drinking and/or plants needing added Ca: Sediment filter + DI + "pH Stabilizer" (calcite) Base (chlorinated water): Sediment filter + Carbon/KDF + DI + "pH Stabilizer" (calcite)
Last edited by Ray; 10-26-2011 at 10:23 AM..
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