Switching back to a balanced fertilizer.....

[Ray]

Addressing the last two responses:

The original Greencare-made MSU formulas are:
RO - 13-3-15-8Ca-2Mg
WW - 19-4-23

While I don't think either of those formulas has "too much" nitrogen, using them heavily certainly could be an issue. I guess some of it depends on the definition of "heavily". For example, I have used the RO one at about 3/4 teaspoon per gallon (about 125ppm N) at every watering, which varies from once a week in winter to as much as 3x per week in the summer, for 8 years, and I have no blooming issues.

Tucker - Bill also mentioned that it is quite common for "over the counter" types of fertilizer formulas to really acidify solutions - sometimes too much.

[Ray]

Going back to Cym Ladye's comments for a moment...

Right or wrong, I am starting to cut back on my fertilizer use - still using it at every watering, but cutting the dosing from 100-150 ppm N to about 75-100.

Knowing that lab rats and people both have proven to be healthier and live longer if given a controlled, limited diet, maybe the same is true with plants??

[littlefrog]

I have cut back on fertilizer as well, with no apparent ill effects. One reason is that even orchid rate was too much for bromeliads (which I grow more and more of). Doesn't kill them, quite the reverse. Out of control, overly large for the type bromeliads are almost worse than dead ones.

[tucker85]

I believe in low application rates for fertilizer also. It just seems as though it mimics nature. Also orchids are such scavangers, gathering up what moisture and nutrients are available and storing them for later.

[Cym Ladye]

Originally Posted by tucker85

I believe in low application rates for fertilizer also. It just seems as though it mimics nature. Also orchids are such scavengers, gathering up what moisture and nutrients are available and storing them for later.

In my experience, Cymbidium hybrids are super voracious feeders. I separate these from the species as they are not generally so tolerant of heavy feeding. However, I have noted that using the MSU formula I am using whether at the double rate early in the season or at the 125 ppm nitrogen rate from mid-season on, I have seen no leaf tip burn on any of the species which are often sensitive to such heavy treatment. I suspect other genera would not be so tolerant as you infer Tucker, and even lower, more constant feeding would be preferable, especially for the mounted plants.

I am going to rely on two old adages here: "Don't shoot the horse than brought you", and "Don't change horses in mid stream". Spikes are late here in No. Ca. this year but definitely starting to show now on my plants when I screened the benches this morning, and the newest growths are slowing down. In order to give the MSU a fair chance under my conditions, I am now encouraged to continue the 1/2 dose with additives program as long as weather permits.

Thank you Ray for sharing your expertise with us.

CL

[jrhennek]

I have used the MSU 13-3-15 fertilizer for almost as long as it has been avalible. In 2005 I received a Dendrobium seedling and in December 2008 I received a CCM of 81 with 122 flowers. This year with the same plant I received a CCM of 88 with 490 flowers and I removed about 130 flowers before judging.
I have tried many fertilizers over the years and have found in my growing conditions that the MSU fertilizer is best for me.

[Cym Ladye]

I commend you on your awards. I do not think there is any award more rewarding to a hobbyist than the cultural award, whether it be a CCM or a CCE. But to play the other side of the coin, I could give you the name of several other growers who will claim it was the fertilizer they used that made the difference.

I think of more importance is HOW you use the fertilizer you have, as many can give excellent results. My kudos to you in knowing your plant, "reading" it's needs and applying the fertilizer in the best manner for your growing conditions. Continued success.

I once told a group of novice growers "any orchid fertilizer is better than nothing for Cymbidiums." The secret is to find the one that works best for you under your conditions and USE it".



CL

[Masdyman]

Interesting subject as I use the RO MSU and also sell it in the UK. The recommended dosage rate we use is 1/2 gram per litre for ALL orchids and got to say I am very happy with the feed and wouldn't use anything else.
I did concider using at a higher strength 125 ppm N and did for a very short spell but I bottled it as my love is Masdevallias! and I went for the lower strength as recommended.

My view now after using it is at this lower strength is I am getting great growths and flowers so there is not need for the higher strength or any other supplements.

[Cym Ladye]

Masdyman,

I definitely concur with your use of the lower rate for Masdevallias. I am sure this would be true as well for several other genera. As I stated in my last post, hybrid Cyms are very heavy feeders during their growth season. They can be overfed however, and the secret is to know where that line is and are the nutrients provided encouraging growth at the expense of blooms.

According to what I have read and what I have experienced, plants will not absorb the nutrients with ease in cold weather as they did in warm weather. Some have said absorption decreases dramatically under 65 F. as the plants slow their growth. For those growing outdoors, that would seem to make any fertilizer program in winter a waste of good material unless a few warm sunny days show up.

CL

[Intruder]

Originally Posted by Masdyman

Interesting subject as I use the RO MSU and also sell it in the UK. The recommended dosage rate we use is 1/2 gram per litre for ALL orchids and got to say I am very happy with the feed and wouldn't use anything else.
I did concider using at a higher strength 125 ppm N and did for a very short spell but I bottled it as my love is Masdevallias! and I went for the lower strength as recommended.

My view now after using it is at this lower strength is I am getting great growths and flowers so there is not need for the higher strength or any other supplements.

I confirm that the concentration that you mentioned is also sufficient for cattleyas when fertilized once a week during the growing season. I use the AKERNE fertiliser.