Hi Ray , were do you get 4546 tsp ,our tsp measures 5ml ?
Now i am confused?

Right :lol: i think i have got to ditch the teaspoon conversion & Mlts etc .
I have googled this and Tsp / Tbsp to ml there is much debate what is what . :roll: 5ml ,5.91 ml 7ml :evil:

So i think i need to go look at the MSU imperial dosage guide in Grams and just way it out then find a utensil that the feed fits nicely into for future use ,saving re-weighing .

What do you think Ray ?

What I do is mix to 125 and dilute that in a smaller container to 100 for ones that don't want a lot of Fert. I use a TDS. meter . Gin

I use 1 g/l, that means 132 ppm nitrogen and my plants have no complaints about that.

Hi Pippin , what plants do you use this on ?
Regards

Masdyman, you seem to have missed my point.

If you use an Imperial teaspoon to mix up Imperial gallons, the ratio is exactly the same as if you use a US teaspoon to mix up a US gallon.

If the teaspoon measure you are using is 5 ml, it is a US teaspoon, and you will be mixing a more-dilute solution.

One way to avoid the whole problem is to make a concentrate, then use it volumetrically.

For example, the Greencare "MSU" Well Water formula (19-4-23) calls for 2.5g per US gallon for a 125 ppm N solution. That means there are 2.5/3.785 = 0.66g per liter.

Let's say you purchased a 500g tub of fertilizer. The entire thing, therefore, will make up 500/0.66=757.6 liters if 125 ppm N solution. If you put that entire 500g of powder in a large container, then added water to make up 7.6 liters total volume, you now have a 100:1 concentrate, and you can mix 10ml of that per liter to get the final 125 ppm N concentration.

There is an additional benefit to doing that, by the way: those fertilizers are not the most homogeneous mixes, as they are really intended for commercial growers that typically use one of more bags at a time, not small portions. By making a liquid concentrate, and shaking it well before each use, you are certain of a very homogeneous and uniform chemistry at all times.

I know this doesn't answer your question as asked but I have trouble retaining measurement conversions and have found this site that can convert any type of measurement imaginable. Thought it might be helpful to others as well.
Capacity and Volume conversion online.

there is a menu box near the top that you can change to the type of measurement you need.

Thanks Dave! Nice all-in-one site.

Hi Ray ,what would be the shelf life if it is concentrated ?
Can you go over this to check i have done it correctly please.

Imperial
13-3-15 Orchid RO Water calls for 4.32g per gallon(4.54lt) for 125 ppm N
So 4.32g /4.54 =0.95g per lts
500 g/0.95g = 526.32 lts @ 125 ppm N
500G OF FEED add 9.0 lts of RO to make 100-1 concentrate to mix 10ml per ltr to get final 125 ppm concentration .
I am praying to god i have done this right !

Here is a very interesting discussion! During several years I have fertilized my orchids on basis of the quantity of nitrogen provided: 145 ppm N for Catts, 125 ppm N for Paphs, 80 ppm N for Phrags, 175 ppm N for cymbidiums. ….and this once per week in growth period and a rinsing of the substrate after three fertilizer distributions. Since this year, I have a little re-examined my method to distribute the fertilyser because I have noted burns of roots on certain plants by using these concentrations (Paphiopedilums in particular). A friend, agricultural engineer, drew my attention to the conductivity of the solutions at these concentrations. Some research on the Web and in the literature showed us that with 125 ppm N a solution of fertilyser like MSU has a conductibility in the range 1000 µS. A study on the growth of the cymbidiums (which are heavy eaters) shown that to have the best grow it was not necessary to use a fertilyser solution having more than 800 µS .This solution has a lower conductivity than 125 ppm N using MSU fertilyser but three times per week is recommended . We read also that generally speaking it is recommended not to exceed 600 to 700 µS conductivity to avoid damage at the orchids roots (either approximately 100 ppm N with MSU).
Thus, this year my method to feed my orchids will be the following . For orchids having very thin or sensitive roots (masdevallias, phragmipediums, paphiopedilum) not more than 80 ppm N once per week. For the heavy eaters plants like Cattleyas, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidiums a fertilyser solution at 100 ppm N twice per week if the growth is not shown sufficient. Having always in my head not to exceed the 6 to 700 µS for the solution in contact with the roots. I must also say: I cultivate on organic substrate (Bark CHC…) and I think when you cultivate in S/H the roots being always wet the burning risks by a little bit more concentrated solutions is weaker.
That confirms what I have often read: feed weakly weekly and I must added: weekly and if it is not enough ... bi-weekly but always weakly!
Excuse me if my english is not very good, but it is not my native speeking.