New Potting Technique, Root Health

[Des]

Originally Posted by Douglas Scanlan

I see. You like that more than fir bark?

Yes I find that it does not hold salts , is easy to rewet if left to dry , does not compete with the plant for nitrogen , does not breakdown for at least 2 years and best of all does not harbor pathogens easily . I find that the root systems of my plants are altogether a lot healthier growing in CHC .
Its disadvantages are that you must control the ph of your feed water as CHC takes on the ph of the feed water very quickly. Also if you buy it in block form it must be processed before use, as the manufacturers use salt as a preservative for shipping to other countries.

[RosieC]

I also have become a fan of CHC, I use it mixed with fir bark but the plants with a higher percentage of CHC seem to be really enjoying it so I now use it as the majority of the mix.

I experimented with glass beads to fill out the bottom of pots which were too large, but had problems. In my case the roots were not actually in the beads but in bark on top of that.

Strangly and unexpectadly I actually found that too much water was retained between the beads. This may have been due to the shape (mine were more like flat pebbles in shape but arround the same size as yours). The water stayed in the gaps between them and the bark on top of them was not drying out fast enough.

[Douglas Scanlan]

Thats fantastic info about the corn husk chips. I have also been told to look into semi-hydroponics and water culture to do what I am trying to accomplish, but as of now I know nothing about that system.

If I continue with this current system I am probably going to switch to clear plastic stones for fear that the weight of the glass is damaging the roots, and maybe the coating is toxic too. I too have found that a certain amount of moisture is trapped between the glass stones a day or two after watering, but for me this is a good thing, since my stones are in wire baskets. Drainage of water and air drying are much higher factors in that kind of container. But if I water every day or at least every other day, the roots seem happy. That is high maintanace though, which is why some have advised S/H instead.

My most recent pair of Phals were potted two weeks ago in one pot they share, and are pictured here. That is not black rot on the roots, it is left over bark stain from the old pot I bought them in.

[orchids3]

Love CHC myself (mixed with Stalite or hydraton).
What was the pH of whatever your water fertilizer mix? If its acid it will kill the roots. Just an idea.
You can use vinegar for herbicide - because of the acidity.

[Douglas Scanlan]

I read alot about getting the PH right in water and fertilizer, but dont see much on how to achieve that exactly. How does anyone even know what the PH is in thier water? And what should it be, and how do you achieve it?
All I can say about my orchid food is that it is Orchid Plus brnad by Better Grow, and recommended by the American Orchid Society. But there is nothing on the package about PH.

[Ray]

The vast majority of orchids prefer to be in the pH range of 5.5-6.5, but straying outside of that a bit is not fatal to most. A good quality meter is best, but an aquarium test kit or strips will give you a reasonable idea (except the dye in the fertilizer might throw you off a bit in reading them).

Better Grow is "endorsed" by the AOS, not "recommended". In other words, the manufacturer contributed some cash to the society.

[Douglas Scanlan]

Thanks again Ray. It is possible that my PH is off, and it's worthwhile doing some tests to find out. Does this mean I should be testing every single time I fertilize and water my Phals? Or just find a formula that works and stick to mixing it that same way repeatedly?

[orchids3]

Ray, What you say about pH levels is consistant with Dr Argo but personally I find my plants grow best at 6.5 to 7. That is consistant with the nutrient uptake chart that I have. Some nutrients are taken up better at High pH some at low but the range that all are taken up best is 6.5 to 7. There are more rotten roots at the lower pH as well.

[Douglas Scanlan]

Is checking for proper PH necessary mostly when applying fertilizer, or everytime I water?

[Royal]

Originally Posted by musicloveranthony

I think it will be a waiting game If you change the growing media, the roots that had acclimated to a different environment will be less able, or unable, to thrive in the new setting.

I think this is the "problem" in a nutshell. I don't think surface texture come into play as roots grow just fine into the air and stick well to the inside of plastic pots.

As long as you are getting new root growth, and the old root die-off is not so drastic as to hurt the plant, I'd say you are doing just fine.