New Potting Technique, Root Health

[Royal]

Originally Posted by musicloveranthony

I think it will be a waiting game If you change the growing media, the roots that had acclimated to a different environment will be less able, or unable, to thrive in the new setting.

I think this is the "problem" in a nutshell. I don't think surface texture come into play as roots grow just fine into the air and stick well to the inside of plastic pots.

As long as you are getting new root growth, and the old root die-off is not so drastic as to hurt the plant, I'd say you are doing just fine.

[Douglas Scanlan]

Yes, as the individual who is conducting this experiment, I can say I agree with Royal and Anthony the most in their theories of why my roots have struggled even as the plant appeared healthy from the crown up, and the blooms lasted 5-6 months. Growing orchids in glass stones and wire baskets is much more adventurous and off the charts than I initially realized it would be. When I bought these plants, they had thriving green root masses in soaking wet (but brand new) Sphag (that is how the store kept them). Transferring them to my experiment was a polar opposite. However, after 6 months, I simply do not have any NEW root growth on this plant, and therefor I am not confident that this is ever going to work (although half the original roots did survive the 6 months). I will continue some variation of this potting technique, and I still don't like Sphag or bark or any of that- they are great for dry households but in my humid home it is problematic. Even though Sphag is great when it's new, it just breaks down and looses its antifungal properties too quickly, and requires re-potting too often for my liking. My goal was to create a potting technique that would come closest to a natural Phalaenopsis environment for the roots. Which means airflow, light, and the ability to water and dry out in short successive cycles. I realize many of you do not agree with the short drying cycle but I still say this is how Orchids function in nature. My apartment is very humid, and the roots really are supposed to react with air humidity every bit as much as with direct H2O in the pot. I just got sick of the whole concept of keeping roots all couped up in a dark dank pot in direct contact with damp material 24-7. And worrying about how much water is the right amount of water in such a pot- tedious guesswork. Still, new roots are not forming with the system I am experimenting with now, so I think Ray's S/H might be the best solution. I'll still use a wire basket if Ray thinks a basket will not screw up the wicking ability of the S/H potting media. Ray??

[billc]

Originally Posted by Douglas Scanlan

My goal was to create a potting technique that would come closest to a natural Phalaenopsis environment for the roots. Which means airflow, light, and the ability to water and dry out in short successive cycles.

Why not just mount them??

Bill

[musicloveranthony]

Also, the roots might be unhappy having no surface to grasp. They're designed to grasp and anchor the plant. Maybe they need something more coarse mixed in with the glass to provide footholds for the roots? Just a thought

[orchidsamore]

The problem is the Orchid family you chose. Phalaenopsis never like to dry out and the glass can not hold water. Therefor, they are grwoing bare root and will be needed to be watered every day.

Your allowing them to dry out in a day or two is not the proper care for a Phalaenopsis.

[Douglas Scanlan]

Lots of interesting feedback here!

I would like to clarify the theory that the damage is a result of the glass not retaining any moisture. If Phals naturally grow up in trees and cliff walls, with their roots exposed to the open breeze and light, I do not understand why it is nessessary in captivity for them to be envoloped in a damp dark package 24 hours a day 7 days a week. I developed this potting system in an attempt to mimic their natural habitat. I do water the roots every other day most of the time, the room does have 70% humidity, and when I pour out the pot a day after watering, I always find that the innermost glass surfaces and innermost roots are still damp. However I am wondering if it is possible for all this damage to transpire just during one or two busy weeks when I don't get around to watering every other day, or forget to fill the humidifier? How long would it take for that extent of damage to form from lack of water?

I could take comfort in the notion that the root system is re-aclimating if I could confirm there is new root growth. But it just appears to me more like a significant number of the original roots survived until now (which in itself is encouraging, although I lost more than half). Do new roots look the same as mature roots, just a bit smaller and shorter? When I re-potted the Phal in glass over 5 months ago, the roots were healthy and green, but I can't say they were "new".

I plan to continure with this experiment, but I would like to switch to plastic instead of glass (less weight, I think there may be some truth to the damage via weight theory). Also the glass is covered with an irredescent coating (possibly toxic). My online search for plastic was a bit discouraging ($$$$ rediculous!)

Im not sure how to address the issue of giving the roots something to cling to since most transparent objects are smooth, but I'm open to suggestions. I really want to stick with "transparency" based on my theory that the roots should have exposure to light.

[RosieC]

I also have become a fan of CHC, I use it mixed with fir bark but the plants with a higher percentage of CHC seem to be really enjoying it so I now use it as the majority of the mix.

I experimented with glass beads to fill out the bottom of pots which were too large, but had problems. In my case the roots were not actually in the beads but in bark on top of that.

Strangly and unexpectadly I actually found that too much water was retained between the beads. This may have been due to the shape (mine were more like flat pebbles in shape but arround the same size as yours). The water stayed in the gaps between them and the bark on top of them was not drying out fast enough.

[Douglas Scanlan]

Thats fantastic info about the corn husk chips. I have also been told to look into semi-hydroponics and water culture to do what I am trying to accomplish, but as of now I know nothing about that system.

If I continue with this current system I am probably going to switch to clear plastic stones for fear that the weight of the glass is damaging the roots, and maybe the coating is toxic too. I too have found that a certain amount of moisture is trapped between the glass stones a day or two after watering, but for me this is a good thing, since my stones are in wire baskets. Drainage of water and air drying are much higher factors in that kind of container. But if I water every day or at least every other day, the roots seem happy. That is high maintanace though, which is why some have advised S/H instead.

My most recent pair of Phals were potted two weeks ago in one pot they share, and are pictured here. That is not black rot on the roots, it is left over bark stain from the old pot I bought them in.

[Ray]

The vast majority of orchids prefer to be in the pH range of 5.5-6.5, but straying outside of that a bit is not fatal to most. A good quality meter is best, but an aquarium test kit or strips will give you a reasonable idea (except the dye in the fertilizer might throw you off a bit in reading them).

Better Grow is "endorsed" by the AOS, not "recommended". In other words, the manufacturer contributed some cash to the society.

[Douglas Scanlan]

Thanks again Ray. It is possible that my PH is off, and it's worthwhile doing some tests to find out. Does this mean I should be testing every single time I fertilize and water my Phals? Or just find a formula that works and stick to mixing it that same way repeatedly?