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  #11  
Old 10-23-2009, 05:12 AM
RenéeS RenéeS is offline
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Thanks everyone, for your replies!
I do believe most of my plants don't mind a humidity level of about 50 % but one of them really needs about 75 % or higher (Epi capricornu). I guess I won't see any flowers then until I get a better growing area, I really hope that the plant will continue to grow . I also wonder about that, does a plant just stalls when it's not in the humiditylevel it needs or does it keep on growing without flowering?

Camille, I also have a hot water radiator. My plants don't stand on the sill though, because there's afternoon sun shining on it which can make the sill heat up to 30 degrees c and it scorches them, also the radiator gets too hot for them (single glass window and it gets very cold in my flat in the winter ) I do have some waterfilled boxes standing on the radiator but I think my curtains are so heavy they absorb everything :P. Your solution with the wet towels does look good, I am going to give that a try and see if it makes a difference here. My plant table does stand close to the radiator to catch the late afternoon sun from the big window and to get the morning sun from the balcony door window .

For the most part it looks like I'm doing everything that most of the repliers also do: humidity trays, misting and placing them among other plants. I plan on going to experiment with placing some small ferns and mosstypes among the plants, see what that does .
Thanks again for the replies everyone, and if someone does things different, please reply, I'm interested in hearing other people's experiences!
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  #12  
Old 10-28-2009, 07:15 PM
beanluc beanluc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donald View Post
the temps vary from the high 50's at night to the mid 70's during the day. I even have two Vandas but because of the low humidity level I have not been able to get them to bloom
[ off topic ]
Donald, I'm gonna venture to say that the Vandas most definitely need more warmth than that. If, all summer long, you can give them temp's 15-20 deg's higher than what you describe (along with a lot of food and very strong light), you should have spikes by September.
[/ now returning to your regularly scheduled topic ]

On the subject of humidity:
You know, everyboy likes it warm indoors during the winter. When I lived in a place with electric baseboard heat, which everyone knows is extremely de-humidifying, I did something different so that I could leave the baseboards off as much as possible.

(There's another reason I did this, but the effect it has on the humidity level is dramatic)

I would put 2 soup-stock or lobster-pot sized pots of water on the stove, bring them to a boil, then carry them into the room I wanted to heat. Put them on the floor with a towel or a phonebook underneath to protect the floor. Closed the doors. Lids off the pots for warming the room quickly, lids on for longer warming.

You can imagine, especially with the lids off, this humidified the room while warming it. If the humidity became too much, and I still wanted faster warming, a small fan blowing past the lidded hot pots would help.

Five gallons of boiling water radiates as much sheer heat as a good old cast-iron hot-water radiator does, though more slowly. I did this because I was young, broke and hungry, and I paid for my electricity but not my gas in that apartment. By using the gas stove to heat water this way, and avoiding using the electric baseboards, I survived a Portland, Maine winter without losing any fingers to frostbite or losing too many pounds to starvation.

Anyway, with the lids off, it's also a very effective way to add loads of humidity to a room (and non-drying warmth at the same time, which many orchids need), and it lasts for hours. When the steam coming off the surface of the water starts to peter out, the water actually is still hot enough that you can bring it back to the boil in just about no time at all, using next to no energy.

I haven't measured the lift, because I wasn't into orchids back then, and today I have enough humidity that I don't do this for orchids, but I'm going to estimate that in the dead of coastal Maine winter, this technique would bring a 45-degree, 30%-humidity, 10x12x9ft room up to 60 degrees, 65% humidity in an hour. After a couple more hours, with 1 or 2 trips back to the stovetop for re-boiling, and with lids off and fan on the whole time, the room eventually would get to close to 70 degrees and 90% humidity. Just in time for bed.

Last edited by beanluc; 10-28-2009 at 07:24 PM.. Reason: got what I paid for BACKWARDS, fixing
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  #13  
Old 10-29-2009, 03:29 AM
RenéeS RenéeS is offline
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Beanluc, thanks for replying. That sounds like a very interesting way to keep humidity up and I think I am going to try that!
At the moment my plants are in around 50-60 humidity due to the tray and green plants I placed them in but occasionally it does drop . So I managed to crank it up a bit already (or my hydrometer broke)
This seems like a very good idea! The things you can do for your plants
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