flasked plants - Orchid Board

nani · #1 10-04-2009, 07:44 PM

Since i cannot import any orchid plants, I am thinking about importing some flasks of plants, which is allowed. Have any of you raised plants from flasks? Problems? Any place you have ordered them from that is good? I can only grow warm weather orchids, so it would be limited to those. Information from anyone in the know?
Thanks

V_coerulea · #2 10-07-2009, 06:52 PM

I think you should check on importation restrictions. There has always been the smae restrictions on flasks as on plants but it has been overlooked or ignored. But since 9/11 the restrictions were tightened on all imports. You need a phytosanitary certificate on all imports and a CITES certificate on those that require it. Yes, many have successfully imported without these but not legally. And if yours is pulled you're out the cash because ignorance of the law is no excuse. In addition, unless the seedlings are packed inside the flask so tightly that they cannot move, you risk losing the seedlings from being smashed around by loose agar. Or the glass flasks themselves can get smashed. The postal systems (delivery of all kinds) are not noted for their kid glove handling despite what you write, stamp or otherwise affix to the box. And 2-3 weeks travel time can be brutal on all plants, especially seedlings and especially in small flasks. Do you really think they read "Do not allow to freeze" or "Do not place in full sun". And if you don't have import permits, you certainly don't want them to write "Fragile, Live Plants" on the box which amy or may not help. Check USDA - APHIS - Plant Health, Plant Protection and Quarantine for more info.

lambelkip · #3 10-07-2009, 07:59 PM

the APHIS site is for people importing to the United States, not French Polynesia. also note the following, from the APHIS site:

Quote:

Both orchid seedlings and tissue cultures,
if grown on sterile media in sterile containers, are
exempt from CITES permit requirements.

in other words, all orchid flasks are completely exempt from CITES.

however, French Polynesia requires an import permit for all plant materials, including orchid flasks. additionally, there must be a Phytosanitary certificate, which must include a special declaration for French Polynesia.

nani · #4 10-07-2009, 08:11 PM

Yes, thank you. I know the certificates etc., required. I just would like to know if anyone on this site has actually bought a flask and grown them to flowering plants. The reasoning behind the strict import requirements is because of the vanilla grown here, which are also orchids and so risk being infected.

I have the reference books, people here that do it I can ask, but I wanted to hear from a hobbyist exactly how difficult it is?

lambelkip · #5 10-07-2009, 10:58 PM

I've killed most of the seedlings I've deflasked. here's a couple of things I've learned:
1. the seedlings need really high humidity. in the flask, they have nearly 100% humidity, so it may take a couple weeks for them to adjust to the lower humidity in your growing area. I like planting them in sphagnum, since it holds a lot of moisture.
2. seedlings burn easily. if they get too much light, or get too hot, they'll probably die.

the propagation forum has many threads on deflasking seedlings, so you'll probably be able to get more info there.

Undergrounder · #6 10-08-2009, 11:02 AM

Yep, I successfully deflask plants on a regular basis... only the really touchy plants need high humidity, indoor still air is enough, just don't put them in a draft. Lambelkip is right, don't give them too much light, they redden easily until they've established. I deflask into pure coarse perlite kept constantly wet. Best deflasking medium out there. But don't tell anyone else, that's between you and me..

Royal · #7 10-08-2009, 11:12 AM

I'm still waiting on the first blooms from seedlings I've grown from flask, but I have deflasked quite a few. Varieties with thicker leaves and roots seem to be fairly easy to establish. Some are a bit touchy, but My technique and survival rate improves with each batch.

I've found that treating them more like tough little plants and less like sensitive seedlings has given me better results. The ones that survive the first few weeks get moved in with the adults. This is a lot sooner than most would advise but it seems to work for me. I've lost many more from soggy low light conditions than from too much air, sun, or fertilizer.

Suresh Kalyanpur · #8 10-09-2009, 07:18 AM

I recently got deflasked seedlings from a nursery - six vanda seedlings and six dendrobium seedlings. Strangey sll the dendrobium seedlings perished, but the vanda seedlings are growing strongly, although the light, watering, other conditions were exectly identical.

V_coerulea · #9 10-09-2009, 09:11 AM

I'm sorry for overlooking the country logo before writing. And you are correct in the statement that flasks do not need CITES permits but in this country the plants sold from the flasks of Appendix I plants must be accompanied by sales documents leading back to the original flask to prove that the plant was not imported which does require a permit but rather the flask which does not. An example would be Paph vietnamense. I don't think that the plant police will raid every greenhouse in the country to check for plant documentation but it would be easy enough to require documentation for all plants entered into a show or those up for awards. But I'm still off topic.
I have grown many flasks with variable degrees of success. Air movement seems to be key but so is high humidity. I use diluted Physan and Maneb to help control rot anad fungus. I find the vanda family the easiest to grow up and dendrobiums one of the hardest. I still lose about 25-50% on dendrobiums. They need the high humidity with continual good air movement and fungus/rot control. Cattleyas are fairly easy as are the orchids without p-bulbs. Catts come in right after vandas in ease of growing. The leafy orchids like Coch, Pes, Prom and such don't seem to need the high air movement if you supply good humidity and fungus control.

nani · #10 10-09-2009, 10:15 PM

Thank you for your information. Here the humidity is always very high so I think my biggest problem would be rotting. Fungus control is absolutely necessary here. I cannot get Physan here unfortunately. I am trying to find exporters from Hawaii as feel it will be easier to control quality than ordering from Bangkok or Indonesia.