RO water dangers - Page 2 - Orchid Board

HereticHammer · #11 05-08-2009, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billc

Jonny, I think you need a different perspective. Try reading this- www.paphinessorchids.com - The best thing I ever did for my orchids

I wish I had an RO system. Maybe someday...

Bill

Yeah, that link does not work for me.

EDIT: Think site is pulling up for me know. It must have been down for a short while.

Magnus A · #12 05-08-2009, 03:43 PM

I secend Ross!

a very good investment is a pH meter and then a conductivity meter. This to keap track of the water quality! pH paper (paper with pH-indicator) is a very good substitute for an electrical meter and is good enough!

phearamedusa · #13 05-08-2009, 03:51 PM

Most hydroponic fertilizers are complete, but with RO you may need to add in additional calcium, or mix 3/4 RO with 1/4 municipal tap water(if you have really hard water this may not be ideal or work for you, but it works here for me). This will give you some buffering, while not significantly giving you build up on the glass of your case.
I also agree with Ross and Magnus, about the meters for ph and disolved solids.

Gin · #14 05-08-2009, 04:49 PM

Hi , I use rain water when I run out then it is Ro. I also Fert. once a week with MSU. formula for use in rain or Ro. First Rays has it .. Welcome to First Rays Orchids

HereticHammer · #15 05-08-2009, 05:29 PM

Ok, I will need to get a method for testing PH.

I don't think the MSU is for me. I think I will be going back to my old expensive friend (sarcasm) Dyna-Gro since it is easy to get around here (no shipping) and seems to have more macro and micros than most (all so far that I have found.)

Thanks to all for all the great help. I have learned a great deal fast.

This is a great board with really great people.

Ray · #16 05-09-2009, 08:01 AM

Jonny,

Dyna-Gro is going to have the same effect on pH as your other brand of fertilizer. Unless you want to use pH adjusters and test each batch you make up, you're better off with a formula designed for use with a pure water source.

If you're misting properly (i.e., wetting mostly the air, not the plants), RO is preferred. The little that gets of the plants will be no problem. If you're misting is watering them as well, then Magnus' warning is a good one: cell walls are semipermeable, and nature wants to balance the chemistry on both sides of them by osmosis. Watering with pure water will have the effect of trying to dilute the fluids inside the cells, and will, indeed, cause some of the nutrient ions to leave the cells, as well.

Adding fertilizer to your misting water is just putting minerals back in that the RO system took out. Yeah, the chemistry may be different, but the buildup will still occur.

Your assessment that a fertilizer/ProTekt solution should not be stored because it gets weaker is wrong on two counts: As the water evaporates, the solution gets stronger, not weaker, and that can be harmful, but the real reason is that the addition of Protekt (a potassium silicate solution) to the fertilizer decreases the solution stability, resulting in the precipitation of some of the dissolved minerals, particularly calcium and magnesium. That is why you NEVER mix them in concentrated form, only at full dilution, then use what you made up.

HereticHammer · #17 05-13-2009, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray

Jonny,

Dyna-Gro is going to have the same effect on pH as your other brand of fertilizer. Unless you want to use pH adjusters and test each batch you make up, you're better off with a formula designed for use with a pure water source.

If you're misting properly (i.e., wetting mostly the air, not the plants), RO is preferred. The little that gets of the plants will be no problem. If you're misting is watering them as well, then Magnus' warning is a good one: cell walls are semipermeable, and nature wants to balance the chemistry on both sides of them by osmosis. Watering with pure water will have the effect of trying to dilute the fluids inside the cells, and will, indeed, cause some of the nutrient ions to leave the cells, as well.

Adding fertilizer to your misting water is just putting minerals back in that the RO system took out. Yeah, the chemistry may be different, but the buildup will still occur.

Your assessment that a fertilizer/ProTekt solution should not be stored because it gets weaker is wrong on two counts: As the water evaporates, the solution gets stronger, not weaker, and that can be harmful, but the real reason is that the addition of Protekt (a potassium silicate solution) to the fertilizer decreases the solution stability, resulting in the precipitation of some of the dissolved minerals, particularly calcium and magnesium. That is why you NEVER mix them in concentrated form, only at full dilution, then use what you made up.

So much info, I will try to reply to it all.

First, the Dyna-Gro seem to knock down the PH the least in the fertilizers tested in the link I gave but it is the fertilizer with the ProTekt that is good for buffering PH and is what I think I will try.

As to "misting", the system I have is called a misting system by name but it waters the plants in the orchidarium. There is no need for actual misting because the humidity is staying at 98% at night and around 80% during the light period. I think I finally got that adjusted to where I like it.

The water tank (about five gallons) is pretty much sealed so there is little evaporation so I hope I can mix up the fertilizer and Protekt and it be fine while it is used over the period of about a week.

Build up in the nozzles I am no longer worried about as I had a long conversation with the manufacturer (ProProducts, Pro-Mist system), who are REALLY nice folks, and they assured me that the nozzles I bought are made to be broke down and cleaned easily and are working great in many zoos and such with heavy use with crappy water.

I will have to see how things go once I get some Dyna-Gro/ProTekt. I will be mixing it in a weak solution so I think it should be fine and make the RO water less damaging for the plants.