Keeping healthy roots

[MJSK]

I have a beautiful Lc Albert Hollingsworth ‘FANGtastic that has bloomed for me after three years of new growth, but no flowers, twice. The first time with one flower (purple, about 6 inches across). The next year it bloomed with two flowers. Going on my success this year I increased my collection of cattleya types by about 10 different varieties. I did not want to repot my original one as I didn't want to disturb it but earlier this summer I determined that the potting material after 2 1/2 years really needed to be changed. I found that the roots were horribly rotten. Around the same time I repotted a Laelia purpurata that had finished flowering and was obviously in need of new material. These roots were horribly rotted as well.

I repotted and used Dyna gro KLN and also superthrive to see if I could get some root activity going. I also tried very hard not to water much to see if the humidity of the summer would encourage root growth. I think I over fertilized as the Lc grew many new roots but on closer examination, not all of them seem to be healthy, some have very dead looking ends. The Laelia pupurata took a lot longer to grow roots, but finally has a few.

My question is regarding how to keep the roots viable? I know there are roots in the potting mix that I won't see until I repot, but the Lc has many roots that grew across the surface and over the edge of the pot that I can see. Should I mist them regularly like everyday when it is hot and many a few times a week when it is cooler and drier in the winter? These plants grow on a south facing window that is very tall and open. The Lc did get some sunburn in the winter when the sun angles lower.

[Ross]

Not sure the answer, but remember with Cats and their hybrids, you seldom (if ever) get new roots from backbulbs. Usually new roots emerge from half grown new pseudobulbs. This is true of Oncidiums and Brassia hybrids as well.

[missann]

The trick to keeping healthy roots is to repot every year. Also, after I have repotted an orchid into a new mix, I will take it out and look at how the roots are doing about 2-3 months after I potted it. Also, make sure that the mix is dry before you water again. You can stick a small barbeque skewer down the side of the pot (so you are less likely to skewer the roots) and take it out to check if the mix is moist or not. I just took a cat. out that was in an orchid pot that I was watering daily (it is hot and dry here) and it's roots are doing awesome, however, the pot and the lack of humidity along with the high tems here were allowing it to dry out every day, where you are, you may only have to water once a week. Use the skewer, or a pencil. Don't use the same stick in a different plant to avoid spreading disease.

You can mist the roots on the top once a day. The plant has probably grown the roots over the surface of the media because it didn't like the mix it was in because it was too packed down and they couldn't get any air. Plants are smart like that sometimes. They do everything they can to not die. Lucky for us, huh?
Well, I am sure someone can help you more with your questions.

[camille1585]

I only have 1 catt myself, but from what I read on OB, Catts and their crosses love to have really airy medium, and after watering they shold be allowed to get dry. Apparently they need a sort of wet/dry watering regime to do well.
When I got mine (a garden center rescue from my summer job) the roots were rotted, but there were new growths. I put packing peanuts at the bottom of the pot for drainage, and then potted it in CHC. I think it loves it in there, as the new growths are really digging their many roots deep into the CHC! The old rootless bulbs are slowly shriveling.

[jkofferdahl]

In addition to regular repotting, Catts like their roots to breathe. Remember, their natural habitat is humid, but their roots are exposed, twisting around tree branches. In potting medium they need time between waterings to get nice and aired. It's really easier to kill them with too much water than with not enough.

The real key to any orchid is a healthy root system (provided, of course, that light and temperature are correct). Good roots support good growth, and good growth supports good blooming. Thus, I get as excited by seeing good rooting as I do seeing sheaths and spikes.

[MJSK]

Thank you all for the answers. Ross, I guess I always noticed this regarding roots. I had read somewhere that if plants get too big they are prone to problems. Do you think it is a good idea to perhaps get rid of older backbulbs that no longer have leaves or roots when repotting?

Missann, I have been repotting about every two years. am in Boston, Massachusetts by the way and we had a very raining and overcast several weeks this summer, so I was really underwatering because I was afraid of further rot. This year I got repotme.com Imperial Cattleya mix to repot this plant in. I don’t think I packed the mix too tightly, but perhaps I did. In looking at the plant again, it seems that I planted a bit high because I was afraid of further rot if the bottoms of the pseudobulbs were too low in the mix. There are roots that appear to be just growing down as well. Interesting to check the roots after a few months. I never thought of that as I assumed the orchid will take time to adjust from the shock.I

Camille1585, is CHC coconut husk chips? I have been trying to let dry out between especially due to previously discovered rot. I am trying to find the perfect watering regime.

jkofferdahl, the mix I repotted in seems to be very ‘porous’ so hopefully the plant will get better, I have two new pseudobulbs growing as well. I get excited about seeing growth of any kind on any of my orchids.

Thank you all for your support.

[Ross]

Originally Posted by MJSK

Ross, I guess I always noticed this regarding roots. I had read somewhere that if plants get too big they are prone to problems. Do you think it is a good idea to perhaps get rid of older backbulbs that no longer have leaves or roots when repotting?

No, not necessarily. If the older back bulbs are causing a problem with repotting the plant, then, maybe. I only get rid of old backbulbs when:

1) I have at least 4 new pseudobulbs to create the new plant, and...

2) When the older back bulbs are causing a real squash in the pot. This means the older bulbs are squishing the outsides of the pot.

Then I use the "rule" (it's not a rule, just a chosen way to do it.) keep at least three back bulbs besides the most recent growth.

[camille1585]

Originally Posted by MJSK

Camille1585, is CHC coconut husk chips? I have been trying to let dry out between especially due to previously discovered rot. I am trying to find the perfect watering regime.

Yes, CHC is coconut husk chips/chunks. When I repotted that catt I did a test. Since it was really big, I divided it and potted one part in CHC and the other part in medium grade bark (I wanted coarse grade, but couldn't find any),. So far, the CHC one dries out much more quickly and has more new roots. I will keep on following their progress.

[Ray]

As has been stated, the key to good orchid growing is maintaining good roots, and the way to do that is to focus on air flow to them first, and water second.

You might want to read this: Air Management

[MJSK]

Camille and Ray, thank you for the response. I have read a lot about orchid care, I just have to keep on fine tuning. Ray, thanks for the link about air, it was very informative!