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10-03-2008, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavanaru
however, I must say that Oncidium cebolleta does not grow as xerophitic in venezuela, but ine the Llanos region: deciduous forests, with six months heavy rains and six months completely dry and temps going up to 40°C. For the others I cannot give first hand tips 
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Regardless of where Oncidium cebollata grows with how much ever rainfall it gets in a year, its description as xerophytic come entirely from its terete shape. Quill-like leaves give such plants greater capacity to withstand prolonged dry weather. The stomata of such leaves remain deeply imbedded unlike broad-leaved orchids and they can reduce loss of body moisture through transpiration.
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10-03-2008, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leisurely
Mr. Green, Kim advised that the plant blooms primarily in summer and fall. Keep in mind however, that your seasons do not correspond with the Northern Hemisphere so your flowering season will be different. Just wanted to throw that in, in case you had not already considered it.
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Brassavola nodoasa's habitat is basically equatorial where the photo-periodicity ( i.e. the day-length) does not play any role in initiating blooms. It is the maturation of every healthy new shoot that give you those lovely clusters of white fragrant flowers. I find them flowering in Mumbai any part of the year. I have a hybrid of B. nodosa and Cattelya Bowringiana raised locally by an orchid enthusiast which flowers throughout the year. It has that unmistakable spathulate lip of B. nodosa. There is no limit over the frequency of watering , so long as the growing medium dries out well. Like B Nodosa this hybrid too can grow into an embarrassment. I have lost count of gifts of its offset to many plant lovers. It is truly a sturdy super-sympodial orchid.
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10-06-2008, 05:59 AM
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Zone: 2a
Location: Karachi
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Dear thanks for address, and can you post some pictures of this B.nodosa and cattelya
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10-06-2008, 11:36 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Guyana and Costa Rica
Posts: 90
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In Costa Rica, on the Pacific coast the Brassavola nodosa grows in abundance alongside Laelia rubescens and appear to share the same ant colony protection.
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10-11-2008, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Green61
Dear thanks for address, and can you post some pictures of this B.nodosa and cattelya
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Dear Green 61, I am forwarding an e mail received from my niece containing photographs of the hybrid I had written about between Brassavola nodosa and Cattelya bowringiana. This particular plant is growing in ordinary gritty sand and exposed to temperature exceeding 38 degree for most part of theyear. In summers, it can hover around 42 degree Celsius without ever suffering leaf burn.[IMG]PA090015JPG, PA090016JPG[/IMG]
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10-16-2008, 05:16 PM
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Dear R Srinivasan, where are the pictures
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10-16-2008, 05:54 PM
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Zone: 9b
Location: Central Florida
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Brassavola Nodosa x Cattleya Bowringiana is BC (Brassanthe -New name) Maikai and it is a very strong grower. My plant fills a twelve inch pot and is growing over the sides. It seems to bloom each year around Christmas.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/o...1859168298.jpg
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10-21-2008, 10:47 AM
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Photographs sought by Mr Green 61.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Green61
Dear thanks for address, and can you post some pictures of this B.nodosa and cattelya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leisurely
Brassavola Nodosa x Cattleya Bowringiana is BC (Brassanthe -New name) Maikai and it is a very strong grower. My plant fills a twelve inch pot and is growing over the sides. It seems to bloom each year around Christmas.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/o...1859168298.jpg
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Thank you for enlightening me about the name of this primary hybrid. I have forwarded the photographs received from my niece who grows this hybrid in Chennai. I hope the snaps are good enough for dispay in the thread on Brassavola nodosa.
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10-22-2008, 11:49 AM
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Location: NW FL
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Another thing that might help to aid blooming and give more blooms is to use a higher phosphorus or bloom booster fertilizer. They have a high P ratio in the n-p-k compared to other fertilizers. try gradually increasing light and adding more phosphorus to fertilizing and you should get blooms. You can stop watering as frequently and grow on the slightly drier side, but only if temps decrease as well.
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01-10-2009, 06:09 AM
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Zone: 2a
Location: Karachi
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Brassavola Nodosa
Dear Friends, Thank you very much, from last three month, this plant was in open sun, and now you all can see the result, i again thanks all forum members for cooperation and guidence.
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