Reverse Osmosis Water Management

[Ray]

Originally Posted by WaterWitchin

So I think I know how the in/out thing goes together. One question... since I have five stage filtration, the pure water out tube goes after the last deionization filter, right, instead of after the membrane filter?

Either way will work, but personally, I'd put it right after the membrane. DI is really overkill for orchids - 0-1 ppm versus under 10 isn't worth the expense. The next time you need to replace that cartridge, I'd just remove it from the system.

Then the float valve... I presume I drill a hole at the top of my fancy 55 gallon garbage can and stick the bulkhead of the float through, then fasten one of the two 90 degree elbows on the other side and screw down the bulkhead. So, which one of those two 90's do I use? The all white one is hollow. The one with the pink ring, I try to blow on it from either end and nothing happens. I'm thinking I use the all white one?

It doesn't look to me like you have the right connection for the float valve. Yes, you put it through the upper wall of your storage tank, and the output line from your RO system connects to it, but unless the float valve stem has internal threads that will accept one of those elbows, you're going to have to buy another fitting to adapt it to the 1/4" tubing. If it fits, go with the white one.

I'm quite sure the pink one is a check valve, but you don't really need it. Ditto for the ball valve. You don't need the locking clips either, unless you or someone in your household likes to mess with your system a lot.

Check vales are usually used to prevent the pressure of a bladder tank pushing water back through the membrane, but there is no back-pressure exerted by the open air tank.

[WaterWitchin]

Originally Posted by Ray

Either way will work, but personally, I'd put it right after the membrane. DI is really overkill for orchids - 0-1 ppm versus under 10 isn't worth the expense. The next time you need to replace that cartridge, I'd just remove it from the system.

It doesn't look to me like you have the right connection for the float valve. Yes, you put it through the upper wall of your storage tank, and the output line from your RO system connects to it, but unless the float valve stem has internal threads that will accept one of those elbows, you're going to have to buy another fitting to adapt it to the 1/4" tubing. If it fits, go with the white one.

I'm quite sure the pink one is a check valve, but you don't really need it. Ditto for the ball valve. You don't need the locking clips either, unless you or someone in your household likes to mess with your system a lot.

Check vales are usually used to prevent the pressure of a bladder tank pushing water back through the membrane, but there is no back-pressure exerted by the open air tank.

Yes, the DI filter is overkill, but I was given a couple of cartridges. I'll just disconnect and move on. Yes, one side of the white 90 degree screws into the inside of the bulkhead, so I'll use that. I mess with a portion of my MistKing tubing quite often, but probably won't with this, so I'll just leave for now and can always rob a couple off MistKing if needed. I figured the ballcock was unnecessary unless I wasn't understanding something correctly.

And that's the weirdest check valve I've ever run across. Since there's nothing involved in backflow that would go into something like an aerator and ruin it, it seemed like strange advice anyway.

I'll work at it soon, and report back with success or more questions! Gracias!

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